Even a brief visit through this site will reveal that Sharon and I are fans of human powered recreation. We have sought out wild and beautiful places via boats and bikes, on foot and on skis. I don’t have much tolerance for motor vehicles intruding on my little interludes in nature. I despise quads and side by sides tearing up the forests. Many years ago we rented a jeep for a day in Colorado. I utterly failed to see the attraction. Thus it may come as a bit of a surprise to learn that I’ve had a motorcycle license for 35 years. For the last ten, my vehicle of choice has been a venerable 1998 BMW dual sport motorcycle affectionately named “Fiona.” Why Fiona? Remember the movie? True beauty lies within? And the color is almost spot on! Fiona and I have happily traveled the backcountry of Death Valley, as well as the backroads of Utah, AZ and Colorado.
I fully recognize the contradiction in my attitude toward motor vehicles. I’m reminded of a t-shirt for sale on a popular motorcycle accessory website. It reads, “You are not stuck in traffic – you are traffic.” No matter how I rationalize my motives or actions, the fact is that I am traffic. I am part of the mass of humanity choosing to recreate in the outdoor spaces of our country. And as I did so via motorcycle this past week, I was confronted by that reality once again.
A minor knee issue has temporarily limited my human powered travels. In response, I came up with a vague plan to accompany Fiona to a remote section of the Kaibab National Forest along the north rim of the Grand Canyon. I was looking for a few days of quiet solitude in a beautiful place. I was more than a little disappointed to find out that hundreds of other people had the same idea. What made it worse was that they’d had the same idea before I did. Time after time I arrived a beautiful location near the rim, only to find every available camping spot was occupied. How rude! I was working on some serious righteous indignation – until I reminded myself – I was traffic. As much as I hated to admit it – the universe does not revolve around me. I had no claim on the forest and could hardly get angry with people who also wanted to enjoy a beautiful place.
Having said that, allow me a brief moment on my soapbox. The camper and jeep below had pulled off road right into the forest – right past a sign that read “Area closed to off-road motor vehicle travel” in order to camp next to the rim. I noticed this disturbing trend along the north rim, as well as around Flagstaff. In one several acre area near Lake Mary, every square foot of open ground had been trampled by vehicle tracks. Dozens of groups were camping in what had previously been untrammeled forest. The other problem is pictured at right. This is an example of what regularly gets left behind by people spending time in the forests near Flagstaff. I kid you not! In what alternate universe is this considered even remotely OK? I realize I can’t prevent this behavior. What I can do – and try to do – is not be part of the problem. I don’t encourage Fiona to go places we don’t belong. And however we travel, “Leave no Trace!” camping means just that. Thus endeth the sermon.
In spite of the crowds, I did find the peaceful solitude and beauty I was craving. I hiked out to watch a Canyon sunset. I drove along roads lined by golden aspen trees. I enjoyed silence so profound, the only thing I heard was the blood pumping in my ears. I watched a full moon rise and illuminate a vast swath of emptiness. I sat for hours and just…looked…at nothing in particular. In doing so I saw…everything. I saw some birds soaring lazily, while others were clearly busy getting on with the business of the day. I watched as shadows fell away and revealed rock outcroppings and patches of forest. I watched as early morning shadows revealed folds in the earth, and I traced dry drainages to their confluence with the River. In the end, it was everything I’d been hoping to find in a short get away. And finally, an enjoyable conversation with Christine at Lee’s Ferry on the way home reminded me that among the people who are part of the “traffic”, there are some fascinating people doing some pretty amazing stuff. I leave you with a few images to hopefully inspire you to get out and enjoy – and tread lightly while doing so.
Front row seat for sunrise
Good to hear from you!! Yeah I know we’ve talked…I know how you roll. My guess is that most folks are like you – just out enjoying the woods, exploring, taking care of things. I think you put your finger on it though…increased population, COVID, its all putting pressure on the forest. So we’re starting to see the abuses more and more. Guess seeing the abuse just made me really want to make sure I didn’t see myself as “special” or “above the rules” and figure out ways to be part of the solution and not part of the problem. BTW – we still haven’t gotten together for burgers and adult beverages…..?
Brother you know me, I am traffic as well, our side by side is the link to the wife and my sanity. Our side by side abides by the rules set forth in the forest. Our whole family are all good stewards of the forest. Every trip we make an effort to pick up as much plastic, aluminum and human trash as we can. Sometime we stumble across areas as seen in your pic, where we are overwhelmed and wish we could do more. But as the population continues to grow here in the Wild West, so will the destruction of our forest will grow as well, and that is a sad situation. Covid also pushed everyone out of the cities and into the forest.