Two Wheels, June 14-22
Monday, June 14. The contrast is almost unbelievable. Less than two weeks ago, it was 29 degrees, skies spitting rain with a stiff north wind. Ideal biking weather, right? Today we “endured” 83 degree bluebird skies with a gentle breezes to keep us cool. And, it looks like this will be our life this week while I convalesce in Fairbanks. So far the knee has responded well to the most common prescription for over use injuries. B.R.I.C.E. Beer. Rest. Ice. Compression. Elevation.
Tuesday, June 15. Yesterday we did some easy riding around town. A little sightseeing, some errands, a visit to a medicinal microbrew with no packs and flat roads. Marshall arrived in town today. We enjoyed some pizza with his warmshowers hosts, Tom and Amanda. Super nice folks.
Wednesday, June 16. More resting. Did some deep maintenance on my ride. I performed the same for Sharon when she returned from a sightseeing bike ride. We started prepping food and getting ourselves sorted for the next portion of our journey. Had a pleasant afternoon visiting again with Marshall. The tough ride south has proven to be a bonding experience for the three of us. None of us seems eager for our time together to come to an end.
Thursday, June 17. Rainy day so we got some laundry done and completed our trip prep. A final lazy day before hitting the road again. We’re ready and eager to go.
Friday, June 18. Dan found a shuttle company willing to drive us to Cantwell. With Dan’s limited time, we needed to shorten the ride to something we could reasonably do – without it being a complete sufferfest. Robin dropped us off in an empty lot in what may have been downtown Cantwell…not sure. Got our bikes and gear reassembled and headed east.
Day 1 was a good day. Warm. Sunny. Mountains to the right and left all day. Of course there were hills…nay…small mountains to climb and descend. This is AK after all!
Just about the time we were ready to call it a day, Brushkana River and campground appeared. Perfect. Scored a lovely spot by the river. Another camper said, “I’d a taken that one if’n I’d a sawn it!” Rain was looming large, so we quickly set up camp and had dinner, then it was inside for the night along a lovely river.
Saturday, June 19 As soon as we emerged from our tents it was clear…this was going to be a rainy day. Fortunately we were able to pack and leave before the skies opened. Throughout the dsy there we’re only short reprieves from the wet. We tried ducking into a lodge for lunch to let the rain pass. The rain was patient and kindly waited for us. The rest of the day we dodged puddles and listened to the patter of rain drops on Gore-tex. We stayed “reliably dry” but were very ready to stop when we reached Alpine Creek Lodge.
Susitna River valley below in the distance
Camping near the lodge gave us access to a warm, dry place to hang out while the rain continued all afternoon and evening. Met some fascinating people Maria was there to run an ultra the next day. She was with her parents Jim and Olga. We gave Marshall lots of encouragement to spend time with this beautiful, talented diplomat and (we joked) his future in-laws. Not sure he really needed our encouragement.
Sunday, June 20. As happened often, the day started clear, but by day’s end we pulled the plug early rather than attempt to slog over McClaren pass in a driving rainstorm. Once again we camped near a roadhouse and availed ourselves of their tasty food and hospitality while the storm raged. As always, even with the rain, we never tire of the people we meet, the expansive views of the mountains, lakes and rivers. It is what makes the rain worth enduring.
Monday, June 21. Summer solstice. It makes little difference to us that today is the “longest”. Since we arrived on June 3rd, we have enjoyed constant daylight. Definitely provides travel flexibility.
Today we had perhaps the most pleasing scenery of the Denali Highway. It started with views of the McClaren glacier at the end of this valley. During the day we passed through broad valleys filled with Alpine lakes and creeks. The latter part of the day we spent creeping closer and closer to the jagged peaks and glaciers of the Alaska Range. Our day ended (in the rain of course) in the non-existent town of Paxson. We camped alongside a small bush plane runway. After some heavy rain passed, we actually were able to sit outside, relax, and talk future plans for the next few days and beyond. This was a hard, but extremely satisfying day.
Tuesday, June 22. After today, I should sell my bike and stop touring. I’m quite sure there will never be another day as perfect as this one. First, there was no rain! I was beginning to think that wasn’t even an option. Then during our ride we ascended and descended the same distance, yet somehow rode downhill for 48 of the 58 miles!!! All with a tail wind best described as a tail gale. That alone would qualify this as a ride for the record books. Even better, this all took place as we traversed the Alaska mountain range and were treated to the most spectacular eye candy imaginable. We topped it off with a high camp that afforded us stunning views to enjoy with dinner and conversation. Days like this make you forget the difficult days. Or maybe it’s the other way around. Maybe, just maybe, the difficult days help us truly appreciate gifts like today.
What a day, it sounds like the perfect combo!! You make me feel the need to go and join your bike gang!! Thank you for finding time to write a diary, it’s absolutely great to read your stories and admire the views! (and we know it can be quite hard to find the energy after all the hard work!) Lots of love to you both!! Ruth & Rob xxx
We’d love to have you join us. Can’t tell you how much we would have enjoyed biking with you on your ride through our area. Maybe next summer….Espana? Norway? Points in between?