Two Wheels: July 25 – 31
Just to change things up a bit this week, rather than do a day by day journal, I’ll do something of an overview. From Anchorage on Sunday, we followed the road south with stops at Girdwood (1 night), Hope (2), Jean Lake (1), Soldotna (2), and Clam Gulch (1). As usual, we’ve had some wonderful experiences.
Along Turnagain Arm we were fortunate to follow an incoming bore tide. Amazing to see the power of the tide – as well as the surfers, SUP riders and kayakers riding the wave. As we we’re riding along following the progress of the bore tide, we met Debbie. Even though she was on her way home to Anchorage, she followed us to the Girdwood Brewery and insisted on buying us a beer. Trail Magic #1. At the brewery we met Bill and Marina from Truckee. They had just finished a five day sea kayak trip out of Valdez. They shared some incredible stories of kayaking in the same area we took our boat tour. The best was their description of a hunting pod of whales. One of the pictures below was from their trip.
Turnagain Arm bore tide 
Pics from Bill and Marina’s kayak trip 
Bill and Marina…toasting Debbie’s generosity
Next day we made our way to Hope. Hope was exactly what you’d imagine an Alaskan village would look like. Most of the buildings date back to a gold rush in the late 1800’s. Back then as many as 3000 people lived in the area, hoping to strike it rich. Today fewer than 200 hardy souls call it home. We decided it looked like the perfect place to spend an extra day. As usual, the best memories came from some of the folks we met. In the Sea View bar we met family friends of the Seward Olympic swimmer – Lydia Jacoby. They were proud beyond belief. Fellow camper eleven year old Jacob caught and fileted a pink salmon for us. Trail Magic #2. We promptly fried it up for lunch. Delicious. In the same campground Debbie and Steve from Palmer invited us over for adult beverages around their fire. With many similar interests, we would easily see a friendship forming if distance weren’t an issue.
Main Street – Hope, AK 
Jacob the mighty slayer of fish 
Sea View Bar 
Steve and Debbie
I had been to Soldotna several times back in the day, but remembered almost nothing about it. We enjoyed visits to both the St Elias and Kenai River breweries. We spent an off day doing laundry, meandering around town. taking our first opportunity to watch some of the Olympics, and getting caught up on chores.
Jean Lake camp 
Favorite landmark 
Site of my 1st taste of backcountry telemark skiing. 
Prost!
After Soldotna we took a detour into Kenai to witness the spectacle that is dip netting. Apparently every AK resident head of household can dipnet 15 salmon, and 10 more for every member of the household. From what we saw at the mouth of the Kenai River, not many residents were passing on that opportunity.
We also spent time planning our next few weeks. We were disappointed to learn that the normal ferry between Homer to Kodiak had been reassigned elsewhere for the first two weeks of August. That effectively removes a visit to Kodiak as an option. Not to worry. We have Homer to explore. Seward still awaits. In the meantime, we’re enjoying the journey. Hope you are enjoying yours.
As usual I really enjoy your dialogue. I say “” I” because Jim is on his trip and hasn’t heard/read your writing. And as usual, it makes me feel like a real slug. You folks are so fortunate to meet such wonderful people.