To paraphrase the character Ted Lasso, “You could fill two internets with what we didn’t know about Turkey”. Even after two months, I probably still don’t know what I don’t know about life and culture here. Still, I think there might be some value in sharing a few observations.

I’ll start with a question Sharon and I discussed while riding. What did we find most surprising? We agreed. We had no language skills. We were ignorant of the cultural and social clues that allow one to function in society. Family and friends voiced concerns for our safety. In spite of all that, things felt surisingly…comfortable! In spite of the fact that we were foreigners here…we never felt overwhelmed by the foreign-ness of the place. If we stopped and looked puzzled (often) inevtably someone would come to our aid. Whenever we had a question or difficulty someone would offer a ‘no problem‘ and help to resolve our issue or answer our question. Even those who speak only Turkish know the phrase, ‘no problem!’ Rather than fumble around or wonder, we felt very comfortable just asking for help. People, invariably, did!   

And as far as safety concerns, we never felt even the slightest bit concerned for our safety. Well, except when we blundered into a forbidden military zone. OK, and maybe on the road in the presence of taxi drivers. But otherwise, no matter where we were, no matter what we were doing we felt safe and comfortable. And this was no Pollyana-ish wishful thinking. Check it out! The crime rate in Turkey is a fraction of that in even small town USA.

We also discussed our main disappointment. For me it was a lack of language skills that prevented us from making more meaningful connections to people. Late in the ninth inning we did have some wonderful experiences, but the feeling remains. To some extent it is unavoidable. It is also on us to fix…perhaps staying with more English speaking Warmshower hosts. Or having the patience to have more Google Translate conversations.

Top of Sharon’s list would be that over half of all people smoke. By all who know and love her, she is affectionately known as the smoking nazi. But truly, the smell is almost impossible to escape. And all those butts end up, of course, on the ground.

There are other disappointments. Given the natural beauty, it was frustrating to see the amount of garbage everywhere. (e.g. ciggy butts) Granted, considering what happens in the forest around Flagstaff when Phoenix comes up to play, we can’t really claim the moral high ground. But at least around Flag, concerned citizens or groups (shout out to folks like Emily Snelson and Kahtoola) care enough to go out and pick up after slobs. Here – doesn’t seem to be a priority. Given the resources of this country, it was also disappointing to hear of and see the financial struggles of so many people. Especially since much of that seems due to a mismanaged economy. An anual inflation rate of 7% in the US is considered a major crisis. Here the annual rate is officially 50% and in reality is probably closer to 100%! Imagine! People here love their country, but intensely dislike how hard it is to make a living.

Finally, I expect that everyone will want to know, “What was our favorite part?” The beauty of the Mediterranean coastline would certainly be in the running. Words fail! The mountains and snow capped peaks would surely receive a nomination. The entire region of Cappadocia is always a fan favorite. Honorable mention goes to the food! And of course, no list would be complete without the history! Thousands of years of history, nonchalantly on display everywhere you look.

Tough decision! The envelope please! The “Favorite Part of Turkey Award goes to… the people of Turkey! People like Bob and Zeynep who gave us a crash course on everything Turkey and who waited to be sure we had no problems with customs. And, who continued to check in on us to make sure we were doing well. The young man on the scooter who helped guide us through traffic on day #1 and drove off with a hearty, “Welcome to my Country! Enjoy!” Gursoy who flagged us down along highway and insisted we spend the night at his home. His mother who fed us dinner and breakfast. The neighbors who all stopped by for an impromptu party to meet the Americans and further our eduction about Turkey. Ali who saw four cyclists putting on raingear in a downpour, and backed up his semi and insisted on taking us twenty miles down the road to a hotel. My “abi” Cuneyt and family who treated us as family. Not to mention all the strangers, who through their smiles, kind words, and deeds, and gifts made us feel welcome.

Clearly, Turkey is no utopian paradise. No place is.  But I hope our experiences here have pulled back the curtain and allowed you a small glimpse and appreciation for a wonderful part of the world. Türkiye’yi seviyoruz!