June 4 – 10, 2023

Sunday, June 4 (Day 75). Scars of World Wars run deep in northern France. After all, France hosted “the war to end all wars” just twenty some years before. Then Germany came calling again to unleash a fresh batch of horrors on the world. The Caen Memorial Museum provides an excellent overview of events leading up to and through the war. It offers both military insights as well as the atrocities visited upon civilians. Consider just one example of what a world under Hitler looked like. The man quoted felt totally justified in mass murder of innocent people because he’d been told “they” they were “the enemy.” Caution: this letter is graphic and disturbing.

The cost in lives and suffering to stop Hitler and his allies was immense. That letter also perfectly illustrates why that price had to be paid. As an aside, it is an abomination to hear almost identical verbage and ideas being espoused by politicians and their followers today. Clearly, the visit to the museum was a moving experience.

It was not entirely a somber day. Sharon enjoyed her exploration of Caen. She got to see the finish of the Liberte’ Half Marathon. We were reminded (again) of item #1 on our “Things we have to remember in France” list? Oh, that’s right! Everything is closed on Sunday. With no groceries available, we were fortunate to find an open restaurant. Of all things, an American themed restaurant, with gen-you-wine country music. Swell!

Monday, June 5 (Day 76). June 6th, 1944 Normany was the site of the largest amphibious assault in history. That was seventy-nine years ago. Ancient history to many, but in this place that history is alive. In every town there are plaques and memorials. We stopped to pay respects to a few of the fallen in one of the many war cemeteries.

Buildings present in old black and white photos are still standing today. All day, military aircraft made low passes along the beach. Eighty-year old military vehicles are buzzing about. As I write this, a WWII Willy’s Jeep just drove by, complete with men in period combat gear. There is something special about walking in the footsteps of history.

• 

• 

• 

• 

We took in this slice of history in a loop north from Caen to the English Channel, west past Sword, Juno and Gold Beaches. Finally we made a run south, with the wind, to end the day in Bayeaux.

Tuesday, June 6 (Day 77). History has judged Operation Overlord a success. On that fateful day seventy-nine years ago, it seems almost nothing went to plan. Landing craft were blown off course, or just blown up. Paratroopers were dropped miles from their objective. Enemy objectives did not have the decency to be where the Allies expected them to be. Perhaps that’s what makes the whole operation so impressive. In spite of the obstacles, on that day and in the days to follow, people just found a way to do what needed to be done.

Given what history teaches about plans, we set out this morning without one. We were simply determined to make the most of whatever came our way. Our first stop was at Port-en-Bessin. By chance we found our way to a memorial dedicated to British Commandos. A plaque on site spoke of their heroism and gave some of the details. I had no idea the enormity of what these men accomplished until I watched this video. (If you’d like, you can watch it here: https://youtu.be/6oX4zVpWhXA )

The day offered up other notable events. Twelve thousand white crosses mark the fallen at the American Cemetery above Omaha Beach. Even with all we’ve seen and read recently, this was somehow especially moving. Our visit happened to coincide with a ceremony featuring several WWII veterans. With a voice much younger than his 98 years, one veteran recounted his experiences. He held his closest friend in the military in his arms and watched him die on this very beach. He left them there to carry out his mission. There were not many dry eyes in the crowd.

We left humbled and grateful that so many people were willing to make the ultimate sacrifice to stop evil.

We ended the day in Isigny-sur-Mer. The campground was home to many of the re-enactors we’d seen driving around the Normandy beaches. It was also where we met kindred spirit Sarah from Wrexham (yes, that Wrexham!). It didn’t take long to realize this was not her first rodeo. Before a full time job and career caught up to her, she had traveled the world. Now she squeezes in a bike trip and travel during breaks from work. Great fun sharing stories and laughing. Happy travels Sarah. Hopefully our paths will cross again.

Wednesday, June 7 (Day 78). Nefarious dealings delayed our departure. As we often do, Sharon had left her phone in the bathroom to charge. When she went to collect it – gone! Someone had nicked it. We check the office, asked around a bit. Nothing. Not to be deterred, Sharon ID’d a group of likely phone thieves. She asked them directly if anyone had “found” a phone in the bathroom. Innocent shrugs all around. It seems likely that she rattled them, or a parent stepped up. Shortly after, one of the young men “found” Sharon’s “lost” phone. Don’t mess with Sharon. I’m just glad she’s my friend.

In spite of the late start, we made good progress with a tailwind for the first time in I can’t remember. We passed through Carenton. Somewhat notable for events involving Easy Company portrayed in “Band of Brothers.” Along the way we met a charming couple from Scotland. She 76. He 84. It is amazing all the places you can get to in 30+ years of bike touring. And they are still going strong. They are my new heros!

Beyond that, just another fun day taking in random sights on our way to a spot along the coast for the night.

Thursday, June 8 (Day 79). We began by weaving through clusters of homes scattered along country lanes along the coast. By mid-day though it became apparent that Sharon’s scratchy throat was the start of something worse. We let Google show us the most direct route to Avranches.We’ll spend several nights here to allow both Sharon’s cold and impending bad weather to pass.

Sick or not, we still have to eat. We made our first stop at a proper creperie. The savory crepe introduced me to flavors I’ve never met. It was love at first bite! The dessert crepe had us both trying to lick our plate without looking obvious.

• 

• 

• 

Friday, June 9 (Day 80). Our first impression of Avranches was…meh! The multiple lanes and heavy auto traffic was jarring. It was more like an American city than almost any place we’d been in France. A sightseeing run around town changed my opinion. I started my run at the General George Patton memorial. A few blocks away I stopped to gawk at still another centuries old cathedral (it doesn’t get old). In 1170, King Henry II encouraged (if not outright ordered) the murder of Thomas Becket. He was subsequently excommunicated. Here in Avranches, there is a paving stone where Henry II knelt in 1172 to receive absolution for his involvement (after he agreed to pay the appropriate amount. That’s how forgiveness works, right?). Near that paving stone, high school kids were playing cricket in a park. I stepped out of the way of a passing Tesla after admiring 1,000 year old Mont-st-Michel in the distance. Then ran past a modern football pitch and several clay courts belonging to a local tennis club. Ancient, old and modern all live side by side here in a pleasant mixture.

Saturday, June 10 (Day 81).

Not that we need an excuse to have a truly lazy day, but sickness and bad weather gave us an easy out. I went for a run and did an errand before the rain. Sharon made a trip to the local grocery. We read and listened to books. We did some laundry. We may work up the energy to take a nap. The women’s French Open Finals are today. All in all, a much appreciated rest day. Last year, we covered 3,000 miles in five and a half months. We just passed 2,000 miles in about half the time. True rest days have been rare this time around.

Last night we booked our ferry crossing from St. Malo to Portsmouth. That means after today, we have only three more days in France. As always, the end of our time in a country is bittersweet. We will always cherish our time here. At the same time, it is always exciting to move on to something new. So, that’s all the news fit to print. Until next time – STC!