I love the lyrics to the song “Glorious” by Mamuse. So even though I’ve used them before at the beginning of a different post, I’m going to share them again.
I’ve got good friends to the left of me And good friends to my right Got the open sky above me And the earth beneath my feet Got a feeling in my heart That’s singin’ All in life is sweet – Oh what a day!
If you’ve read the ‘welcome’ page, you know that the genesis for this blog was a moving experience I had as a young man in the mountains. More precisely, it was the realization that the experience was somewhat diminished by not having anyone with whom to share it. To say that has changed would perhaps rank as the most colossal understatement of the ages. The quantity and quality of friends who have shared adventures since then almost defies description. In fact, as I gathered photos for this post, I realized there are so many friends, and so many adventures – they realistically won’t fit in one post. This, then, will be just the first in a series of photo essays to celebrate those whom I am privileged to call friend – and just a few of the adventures we’ve shared.
Boundary Waters (early 80’s)…I met the Backer boys in high school. We forged bonds of friendship doing what any self-respecting mountaineer wannabe living in the Midwest would do – we camped in the middle of winter – in northern Minnesota – in weather cold enough to freeze solid a bottle of Peppermint Schnapps. Thus was born the concept of “stupid fun.”
Neatly organized pack…Check! Broken ski pole splint…Check! Wool knickers…Check! Practically ready for a trip to Everest.
Aftermath of a Warren face plant. BTW…skis were my idea. Everyone else wanted snow shoes. Thanks guys!
Mike, Dave, Dan, Phil, Warren…successful south to north crossing of the Boundary Waters Canoe Area!
1985 Mt Robson… By the time we set our sights on Robson, Dan and Warren had already climbed Rainier as teenagers (what were their parents thinking?). I had lived close to lots of mountains in Alaska. We had several BWCA trips under our belts. Yep – we were ready for the big time.
It’s all fun and games until one of those beasts jumps on your back!
Warren, Dave, Tim and Dan sporting the latest in climbing gear and clothing.
Mt Robson from our climb to the top of Mt. Resplendant. Unsuccessful summit attempt on Robson, but super successful climbing adventure.
Studly Noob climbers. We didn’t even know what we didn’t know – and we still had fun.
The journey – and the views along the way – are just as important as the destination.
A New Life (1985)…Two weeks after Robson I said “I do” to an amazing new chapter in life with my best friend and adventure partner. One of our first (and still favorite) adventures was a seven week long, 2,500 mile bike ride up the east coast and into the maritime provinces of Canada.
The bike trip was a microcosm of marriage…lots of figuring things out.
For those who know me now, there was a time when MY hair was longer than Sharon’s.
Lots of miles and smiles that summer.
One of our less successful dinner experiments – a true gastronomic nightmare!
Somehow this captures what life would be like living in the inner city of Milwaukee, working, raising three boys, you know…life!
Boundary Waters…Again (2002)…Life in Milwaukee was fun, challenging and filled with lots of good times with many, many dear friends. We watched our children grow from infants to teens and were fully immersed in that world. A new century seemed like a good time for a fresh start though. In 2001 we moved to a mountain town in northern AZ and were suddenly confronted with a whole new world – a world filled with new friends and opportunities for new adventures. Interesting that I kicked off this new chapter in early 2002 with an old adventure with old friends.
Can’t remember exactly, but I think that was a brochure for a beach front time share.
Seems like Dan keeps popping up in all these posts involving snow and puffy jackets.
Yep…still snows in the Boundary Waters.
The gear had improved considerably in 20 years. Much more comfortable than I remember.
Warren, Tim, Phil, Dave and Dan Boss after another successful trip.
Collectively, the four trips presented here amount to less than three months out of the 57 years I’ve spent on the planet so far. Only seven people are pictured in these photos. Seven people out of the hundreds, perhaps thousands of people I’ve met in the course of my life. A tiny fraction. And yet, when I look at these pictures, the flood gates open, the memories come pouring out and fill my heart. They make me smile and laugh. They make me grateful. And they inspire me. They inspire me to call, or text, or email a friend – to talk, to reminisce – and to plan another adventure!
Following our inquiry, the helpful young lady in the visitor center said “Turn right when you leave here, walk three blocks and then turn right at the (relevant landmark reference). Then walk four blocks and you’ll be there.” As we left, Sharon asked, “Did you notice what she said? She said ‘walk’.” Well of course! She assumed that since it was only 7 blocks, we would walk. Why would one drive such a short distance?? Clearly not a sentiment shared in all corners of the globe
Scene one is NOT likely to see in Norway
When asked, that same helpful young lady offered several suggestions for good hikes – hikes that she liked to do “for fun” in the area around Jotunheimen national park. And so it was that later that day, we found ourselves at a trailhead near the Krossbu lodge. Our plan was to hike to the top of, then along a ridge. Our local contact said she had gone for several miles along this ridge, and then bushwhacked back to the trailhead.
The trail immediately started climbing, and for the most part followed a boisterous creek. Before long we found that it was being fed by three attractive waterfalls. At the 2 mile mark we crested a rise and were confronted by a broad glacier sweeping down to its terminus in a lake. This was a real bargain hike with amazing views such a short distance from the trailhead. In spite of the fact that Jotunheimen is the busiest national park, there were only a few people scattered on the comfy rocks around the lake.
Leirbreen with Store Smorstabbstinden on the left
After resting for a bit we spied a likely route to the top of the ridge and began our climb. All the while a forbidding peak called Store Smorstabbstinden loomed high above us to our right. From the top of the ridge we were treated to amazing views of three separate glaciers nestled in amongst a jumble of peaks. I’d like to say I pulled up some brilliantly relevant John Muir quote to describe the beauty all around us. I’m afraid it mostly rendered us speechless. The best my overwhelmed brain cells could come up with was “wow!” Just “wow!” over and over again.
Leirbreen (Leir Glacier) from above
Store Smorstabbstinden and Storbreen (Stor Glacier
We sat atop of the ridge and drank in the view of glaciers and lakes and ridges and peaks and….wow! From our perch on the ridge we noticed that the ridge to the north would require some significant climbing over some slightly less “wow” worthy terrain. In the other direction, Store Smorstabbstinded still loomed, still looked like a bit of a challenge, but also began to call – whisper really “come on up!” It was faint, at first, but I definitely heard it. The longer we sat looking up at the summit, still 1,600′ above us…the whisper grew louder. Sharon heard it too.
The last few hundred feet to the summit of Store Smorstabbstinden
The middle third of the face presented some challenging route finding through some very steep rocks and cliff bands. The summit was spectacular! Even more so because of the challenge. We looked east into the heart of Jotunheimen national park. We were surrounded by the highest peaks in Norway, all with their own glaciers draped on their flanks. To the southwest we saw a high alpine wonderland and without speaking knew that we would camp there later that evening. Once again “Impossible Norway” came through. It didn’t seem possible that we could have found a better place, or way, to celebrate Sharon’s birthday!
The Queen on her Birthday surveying her realm
Even though it was already late, the sun was still high in the sky. You’ve got to love the northern latitudes in summer! And it had barely made a move toward the horizon by the time we made it back to the care at 8:30pm. It didn’t take long for us to find an impossibly beautiful campsite with impossibly beautiful views. While I set up camp, Sharon worked her one pot wonder magic. We capped off the evening with a visit to the lovely Krossbu Lodge for a birthday beer….an $18 apiece birthday beer. After a magical day, neither of us minded. A perfect end to a perfect day.
The view from our tent…it doesn’t suck
View in the other direction, including Store Smorstabbstinden
Krossbu Lodge
By the way, in case you were wondering…the phrase “Norge er ikke skapt for å sitte på ræva” means “Norway is not created to sit on the butt!” As this day proved, it most certainly is not!!
From time to time Sharon and I are faced with a philosophical dilemma. Say you’re interested in exploring a 30 mile chunk of the Grand Canyon. Does one a) carry just the basics of food and water and do it as a long day hike, or b) do you break the trip into less daunting distances by backpacking over 2 days? As you might have guessed, this is not a hypothetical exercise. For some time we’d talked about hiking the portion of the Tonto trail that lies between the Grandview and the south Kaibab trails…a distance of 29 miles from trailhead to trailhead. It would be possible to do it in one day, thus avoiding the hassle of backcountry permits and schlepping our camping gear. On the other hand, it would be a really long day. So…what to do?
The Tonto Trail from Grandview on the left to the s. Kaibab trail on the far right.
Eventually we hit on a solution. We got the necessary backcountry permit to spend a night along the trail and do the hike over two days…but we decided to make this an ultra-lightweight experiment. We’ve both had been moving in that direction for some time, but we decided to see how light could we go and still be comfortable.
Since this was just going to be an overnight trip, our first big decision involved food. We opted to leave behind the stove and cooking gear. Our plan was to eat a large breakfast before hitting the trail and bring our normal trail food during the day. For supper we would dine on several pieces of Fratelli’s pizza – purchased the night before and frozen. We’ve done this a number of times before. It is not ultra-lightweight, but it is ultra-tasty and much appreciated after a long day on the trail. Breakfast on day two would be bagels slathered with high calorie goodness. Bars and sufficient trail food would get us back to the trailhead.
With food taken care of, we had to make some gear decisions. Normally we sleep under the stars when traveling in the Canyon. This time around, the chance for rain was high enough to warrant some protection – but not high enough to lead us to bag the trip. Being close to the Canyon, we have the luxury of being fair weather hikers. Solution? We brought along the rain fly from my 1980’s era REI tent and a simple plastic ground sheet. The fly works beautifully with two hiking poles. Total weight – about 1.5 lbs. With food and shelter settled, it was just a matter of taking just enough temperature appropriate clothing – but no more than necessary. We also tried very hard to follow the lightweight maxim that all gear (if possible) should serve multiple functions. By the time we hit the trailhead, we had weighed, pondered extensively discussed each piece of gear that ended up in our packs. We were quite pleased with the results. With a full load of food and water (3 liters each = 6.6 lbs), we each ended up carrying 18 lbs. Nowhere near the minimal weights that some fanatics are able to achieve, but it was hardly noticeable. We also felt quite confident that we would be comfortable whatever conditions we encountered.
The Happy Hikers ready to start
Bit of a drop heading down the Grandview trail.
Lots of flowers in bloom along the trail.
Unable to walk and talk at the same time, Dave does his ‘turtle on its back’ imitation.Sharon “Are you OK?” Me “Yes, but I can’t get up.” Sharon “OK. Let me get some pictures first, then I’ll help.” Thanks Hon!
With the exception of a minor off-trail detour (see picture above), the trip down the Grandview to Horseshoe Mesa went quickly. We then dropped off the west side down to the Cottonwood campsite. Given that April is prime Canyon camping time, we weren’t surprised to see quite few folks there. As soon as we continued on the Tonto trail, however, we saw only one other group until we arrived at the Kaibab trail. As always, exactly the camper/hiker density we were hoping for.
I’ve always believed that there is a direct correlation between the weight of one’s pack vs enjoyment. As pack weight increases enjoyment decreases exponentially. On the other end of the scale, we were both enjoying our light loads and were able to move quickly. We were able to top off with water at the back of Grapevine Canyon, and expected that would be enough until we reached camp at Lone Tree Canyon. Everything was going according to plan…or so we thought. If you look at the map above, you may notice a small, unnamed watershed in between Grapevine Canyon and Boulder Creek. Since the Tonto trail is so pronounced, we didn’t bother bringing a map. As we made our way around that unnamed watershed, we made the mistaken assumption that it was Boulder Creek and we marveled at what good time were making. Thus, when we (in reality) came to Boulder Creek, we made the mistaken assumption that it was Lone Tree Canyon. This was quite puzzling because all our research indicated that there was good camping and reliable water at Lone Tree…and we found neither. This also mattered because we were going to needed water.
We puzzled over this for a bit and eventually the realization hit…we were actually at Boulder Creek. Practically speaking, this really wasn’t a big deal. We had plenty of energy and daylight left to hike the additional miles to Lone Tree. Psychologically though, it was kind of crushing. We were excited about how good we felt, and we had mentally prepared ourselves to be done. Now we had to saddle up and hike several more miles. It didn’t help matters that some clouds had rolled in and a cold wind had built up. We briefly contemplated stopping short and camping at a spot overlooking the river. In the end, we pushed on and were rewarded with a lovely spot at Lone Tree.
Heading toward the back of Grapevine Canyon.
A welcome sight along this stretch of the Tonto.
The inner gorge and the River.
Our shelter at Lone Tree Canyon.
Moonrise looking up Lone Tree.
Lone Tree was a fantastic place to camp. We had water. We had pizza. We were serenaded by love struck frogs. Even though it rained a bit, the wind died and our shelter performed flawlessly. We had covered twenty relatively painless miles, and were rewarded with yet another awe-inspiring evening in the Canyon.
Bluebird skies and perfect temps on day two.
Having crossed through Cremation Canyon, we entered the day use area near the s. Kaibab trail.
Back on familiar turf…the south Kaibab near Sharon’s favorite portion – the switchbacks.
A large band of heavy rain followed us up the Kaibab. Fortunately we made it before the skies opened.
Day two was much like day one, just warmer, lighter and of course…more uphill. Fortunately the pay off for a long day one was a much shorter hike on day two. As the day wore one we noticed that a large thunderstorm seemed to be following us. With our light packs, what could have been a wet, tedious hike passed rather quickly and we beat the rain to the rim. Thanks to the vehicle shuttle we had done the day before, we were back at our car in no time.
Not that we needed much selling, but Sharon and I both came pleased with our experiment and completely sold on the idea of going as light as possible. We had been able to cover a large portion of the Canyon with not much more weight than we would have carried on a long day hike…and we got to spend another wonderful evening below the rim. We also affirmed our belief that you don’t need to spend outrageous sums of money buying ultralightweight gear made of unicorn blood and baby seal tears to reduce weight. It was more a matter of knowing what conditions to expect, taking only the appropriate gear for those conditions, and being willing to leave behind unnecessary “what if” gear. If you have any specific gear questions, feel free to reach out. And as always, however you do it, we encourage you to get below the rim and Seize the Carp!
Even though there are several very good Thai restaurants in Flagstaff, when I want Thai food, I always go to Pato Thai. And even though they have many excellent food selections on their menu, I always end up ordering the orange chicken, #3 on the spicy scale….which I realize isn’t authentic Thai food. So, even though I have lots of options, I keep choosing the same thing. Boring? Perhaps. But here’s the thing…I really like Pato Thai’s orange chicken.
That explains, in part, how once again Sharon and I ended up in the San Juan mountains of southwestern Colorado. We considered going back to the Canadian Rockies (after a long absence). We considered going to some mountain ranges in Idaho and Montana that we have yet to explore. Even though we had all these intriguing choices, we finally decided that we really like the San Juan mountains. Of course there was the added bonus of being able to see Aaron, Vanessa – and grandson Oliver along the way.
Last summer we spent an amazing week on an off trail backtrip trip through the Grenadier range in the Weminuche wilderness. (You can read about it here. Wet and Wild in the Weminuche) This year, the backpacks stayed home. This, we decided, would be a car camping, relaxing, trail running, peak bagging adventure.
Following the well worn path from work to the George-Moore Casa, we arrived in Durango on Friday and spent a pleasant evening. We set out Saturday morning for the high country west of Lake City. The monsoon weather pattern smiled favorably on us, and even though it was already 2pm, the four of us set out for the top of Handies.
Oliver is not a small person. Aaron was a monster hiker. We had trouble keeping up with him. After breaking out of the trees, we got our first view of Handies.
Climbing 14’ers is hard work (apparently).
After his nap, Oliver is super excited for the summit. His favorite saying was “Go!”
We were pleasantly surprised by the light snowpack on the north facing slopes.
Summit ridge. (Note: Two weeks after we were here, participants in the Hardrock 100 ascended this same trail in a horrific hail thunderstorm!!)
“Safety third” as we like to say. Oliver was making sure his UberLyft driver was properly hydrated.
Oliver’s first 14’er. I suspect it may not be his last. Strong work Daddy!
The weather continued to cooperate, so we were able to lounge for a bit on the summit. We chatted with some fellow hikers, enjoyed the amazing views, and most importantly, helped Oliver throw rocks – which apparently is the main reason anyone would climb a mountain.
Congrats to Aaron on Oliver’s first “Teener!” Unfortunately work called, so the two boys headed back early the next day. Sharon and I used the all day rain (and threat of rain) as an excuse to lounge around camp, eat and – the ultimate luxury – read a whole book. The rest day was actually planned, since day 3 was going to be a double 14’er day. Being on the same ridge, Red Cloud and Sunshine are typically both climbed in a day. After reaching Red Cloud, the trail continues and drops – and then climbs 500′ back up to the summit of Sunshine. This ends up being a longish day of 12 miles and 4,600 feet of elevation gain. Other than bouts of manic wind, it was another beautiful day in the company of my amazing, lovely bride.
Bacon – the fuel of real adventurers!
Heading up the Silver Creek trail
Looking back down the valley, Handies is in the background.
From this ridge at 13,000′ still another (steep) 1,000′ to the summit of Red Cloud
We’ve dropped 500′ feet and are beginning the climb back up to Sunshine
Obligatory summit shot. Amazing views and beautiful lounging weather.
Red Cloud from the summit of Sunshine
Sharon contemplates the climb back up to Red Cloud
Paused in the gale force summit winds for a quick selfie
From the ridge at 13K, the trail back begs to be run. We obliged.
One of the problems with “Juan-dering” in the San Juans is that the choices are endless. As we lounged around that evening, savoring the afterglow of another successful day in the mountains, we weighed and discussed our many options. Since neither of us had been there, we finally decided to explore/hike/climb in the area around Crested Butte. We would then continue around to the Silverton/Ouray area and meet up with Aaron, Vanessa and Oliver at St Paul Lodge at Red Mountain Pass.
So on our nation’s birthday, we made a casual journey through Lake City, Gunnison, and Crested Butte. By days end we found ourselves several miles up Washington Gulch Road at a stunning campsite. We settled in above 10,000′ looking across at the Raggeds Wilderness.
Not a bad spot…if you’re into that whole alpine beauty thing!
Next day we opted for an ascent of nearby Mt Baldy. Once we’d reached the long, summit ridge we met up with Becky from B.C. Becky was something of an overachiever. She had ridden her mountain bike (up) from Crested Butte to the trailhead, and then come up to the ridge by a different route. We decided to make the long traverse to the summit together. Along the way, and on the summit we had an extremely pleasant chat with our new friend. We didn’t know at the time, but later found out that Becky was doing the Hardrock 100. Two weeks later we watched her race to a 5th place finish among women. Well done Becky! (Especially since she’s our age – truly awesome!!!) While Baldy might not be the most aesthetically pleasing mountain, it did benefit from location. Looking north we were treated to the Maroon Bells in all their splendor.
Catching my breath whilst taking in the breathtaking views.
Sharon with the summit ridge stretching off in the distance.
Yes – the truth is out – I’m married to Wonder Woman
Summit shot of Sharon and Becky
Becky Bates at the Hardrock finish. 5th place woman!!
Mt Baldy with Gothic Mountain in the background
Despite the initial gnarliness of the route, Baldy turned out to be a fun mountain. And even with a ‘relaxed’ start time and plenty of time spent on top, there was plenty of time back at camp to relax, quaff adult beverages, read and enjoy a gourmet meal before bed. Hopefully I don’t sound too boastful when I say that I think we’ve got this whole vacation thing pretty well figured out. Our last bit of exploration around Crested Butte took place the next day on the “Oh Be Joyful” trail. The name itself was reason enough to go explore. While nothing dramatic, the trail did ascend a pretty canyon, along a beautiful creek, with some dramatic waterfalls spilling down from on high. After lots of high peaks, it was a relaxing and enjoyable “stroll.”
At times it may not seem like it…but we really do know how to relax.
Friday was a big day. We had a pleasant hotel night in Ouray (can you say hot shower??) on Thursday plus some liquid carbo loading at a local brew pub. All this was prep for a training hike/run up Imogene pass. We both wanted to take the opportunity to gauge our training progress for the annual IPR. Results were mixed. It was somewhat encouraging, yet humbling as always. After a shaky start, Sharon finished very strong. I felt decent both ways, but clearly not where I need to be to put up a good time on September.
Sharon getting her second wind above upper Camp Bird.
Soul crushing steepness and lots of snow up high.
The tally on this Friday “Hikers = 4” “Motorized vehicles = 50-100” I will say all but two were very considerate. Much more fun doing the pass on foot in September with 1,498 of our closest friends.
We celebrated a grueling, but successful training run/hike with dinner at one of our favorites – the Colorado Boy brew pub in Ridgeway.(http://coloradoboy.com/ ) EXCELLENT pizza and tasty beverages. And as always, enjoyed in the convivial company of fellow diners.
“I run…therefore I eat”
Experienced trail runners know how to carbo load and hydrate at the same time.
We wrapped up our week of fun and frolic with a weekend at the St Paul Lodge with Aaron, Vanessa and Oliver. Activities included Oliver led adventures, more vertical human powered travel, food, conversation, reading, naps, and enjoying time in a very special mountain setting.
Hiking up from Red Mt Pass towards Ptarmigan Lake and Imogene Pass
Aaron and Vanessa continued on to Ptarmigan Lake. With some sketchy weather brewing, we decided to head down.
Always nice to be able to walk out the door in July and get some snow to chill the wine.
Oliver approves of “Pa’s digger”
The next generation enjoying St Paul Lodge
All too soon we had to part ways with the kids and with the mountains of Colorado. As always, we came away full of wonderful memories of the people and places we’d visited. Once again, the carp was well and truly seized!
I’ve got good friends to the left of me And good friends to my right Got the open sky above me And the earth beneath my feet Got a feeling in my heart That’s singin’ “All in life is sweet” Oh what a day! Oh, what a day! Glorious!
“Glorious” by MaMuse
Thank you Pandora for introducing me to MaMuse and this song. I love the message…good friends, open sky – what a glorious day! Long before MaMuse, a guy name Epicurus opined, “Of all the things that wisdom provides for living one’s entire life in happiness, the greatest by far is the possession of friendship.” In April of 2013 the Diapers and Depends group of friends set out to prove right both MaMuse and Epicurus…that being outside with good friends is glorious!
Karen, Dan, Cailie, Andrew, Sharon and Rob. Everyone is wondering if Sharon will – in fact – carry beer for everyone
Our plan was to spend 5 days and 4 nights traversing the 40-ish miles of the Escalante route from Lipan point to the Grandview trailhead. Forty-ish miles of Canyon splendor. According to Grand Canyon literature the Escalante route is just that – a route. It is not a maintained trail. Thanks to Outside magazine, the internet, and idiots like me writing about it – the Escalante has become quite popular of late…well relatively popular. Compared to the Phoenix-esque rush hour traffic on the corridor trails, it’s still a very remote experience. I’m not, however, going to add to the traffic by giving step by step directions. Following the pattern I’ve used on other posts, this is meant to be more of a celebration of a good time spent with good friends in a (pardon the pun) grand place.
Our ‘Diapers’ contingent was composed of Karen “I never met an adventure I didn’t like”, Cailie “The Gnome Princess” and husband “Handsome Rob”, and Andrew (it would be impolite to share his nickname). The geriatric ‘Depends’ group included Dan Boss Backer, my lovely bride Sharon and yours truly. Our first day took us part way down the Tanner trail. After a side trip to the top of Cardenas Butte, we continued on to one of my favorite campsites in the Canyon, a site that offers amazing views of the entire Furnace Flats area. Following are pictures from all our campsites.
Camp #1: Sleeping under the stars and a great big moon.
Camp #1: “It’s comfy in here. I don’t want to get up yet…”
Camp #1: One never tires of this view
Furnace Flats
Night two brought us to Cardenas Beach.
Camp #2: Even after hiking on a hot day, it was hard to stay in the river too long – it is always COLD!
Camp #2: Beautiful beach with beautiful views –
check. Refreshing dip in the River – check! Warmer clothes – check! Now – What’s for DINNER! We’re hungry.
Night three was another night next to the River at Papago Creek.
Camp #3: Relaxing at camp was one of the highlights of the day. At Papago Karen broke out the flask and lemonade mix. Clearly, we had a seasoned camperista in our midst. This was no amateur.
Camp #3: Being next to water in the Canyon is always appreciated – especially by those who actually care about personal hygiene. Strong work Cailie.
Camp #3: Another night under the stars, next to the River – Priceless!
Final night…Hance Creek.
Camp #4: Chillin’ at the Cottonwood tree. Great place to hang out in the shade. Speaking from experience…don’t try to camp anywhere near here unless you’re a big fan of nocturnal rodentia. Andrew’s Mountain House “Grey Gruel” may have made him a bit envious of our AWESOMELY tasty homemade cheesy-bacon-mash potatoes.
Camp #4: By this time in the trip we were all pretty comfy with not needing lots of personal privacy space. It’s also possible that too many bad horror flicks have warped Andrew’s idea of a ‘group hug’.
Views from the Trail.
Tanner Trail: Holy Steepness Batman
Tanner Trail
Tanner Trail
Tanner Trail
Tanner Trail
Tanner Trail
Tanner Beach. Shade is always a good thing.
Moments after this picture was taken, we were all treated to Karen’s “I almost stepped on a rattlesnake” dance. That girl busted some moves – quite impressive.
Did I mention shade is a good thing?
Unkar Rapid from above
Canyon hiking always seems to involve going either up or down.
Coming out of 75 Mile Canyon
Descending the “Gully of Death”. Yes – butts are in play.
Hot-ness on the Tonto
The absolute BEST way to see the Canyon. Our route was only slightly second best.
Thoughts from the trail.
Time. People who venture into the Canyon often discover something known as “Canyon time.” It is a place where watches don’t matter. Almost immediately you begin to wonder, “what is this useless thing and why is it strapped on my wrist?” That is not to say that time ceases to exist. Even in the Canyon, one is very much aware of time. Spend too much time in bed, or lingering over the morning cup of java and the Orb of Death will introduce you to a special level of misery. Minutes spent traversing under a hot Canyon sun can seem like hours. Conversely, beautiful spots like our camps at Cardenas or Papago with good friends, and tempus fugit – time flies.
We experienced all the extremes of Canyon time during our too short time on the Escalante. Enroute to Papago Andrew, Rob and Cailie wanted to ‘make time’ and get to camp to maximize our lounging time on the beach. Especially with the Orb of Death making our lives miserable, Karen would have preferred to ‘take time’, spending extra time in the occasional shade and enjoying the views along the way. Once we made it to Papago and had the cooling Colorado close at hand, shade in which to lounge, Karen’s happy hour flask, snacks, conversation, quiet for contemplation – and time passed far too quickly. The climb from Hance to the Grandview trailhead seemed to take forever, and once we reach the parking lot and (curses) civilization – and instantly the trip went from being experience to a fleeting memory.
Friendship vs. Friendliness. Dan Boss, Handsome Rob, the Gnome Princess, Ass Man (OK – now you know), Sharon and I had all been to Nepal together, as well as other adventures. Dan and I had known each since high school and had a lifetime of adventures between us. Sharon and I had known Karen for some time and had shared enough to consider her a friend. I contrast that with many of the people I know from around town and from work. I am on friendly terms with and enjoy spending time with those folks. However, going on a trip like this really brought home the value and importance of friendship vs. friendliness. At various times, especially in Nepal together, we’d seen each other at our best, and at our lowest. We could talk about anything, and conversations ranged from deep and thoughtful to bawdy and hilarious…and always…every day, something poop related or medically disgusting. I’d say MaMuse and Epicurus got it right and I consider myself extremely blessed to have such friends.
Experience. The Canyon is such a magical place, I love introducing newbies to its wonders. It is also rewarding to introduce people to the joys of camping and backpacking. As John Muir once said, “The world’s big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark.” It’s nice to get people out into that big world. Having said that, it is also very, very nice to go backpacking with experienced people who know what they are doing. With people as experienced as our group, it is all about enjoying the experience – rather than trying to figure out how to enjoy the experience.
Hydration is always important on a Canyon hike – its a safety issue. The Diapers and Depends gang at the Grandview trailhead being safe.
All too quickly this trip ended and another chapter was added to the book of Diapers and Depends Expeditions. In the words of one of Flagstaff’s famous sons, “Don’t be sad its over, be glad it happened.” Amen brother!
“The wonders of the Grand Canyon cannot be adequately represented in symbols of speech, nor by speech itself. The resources of the graphic art are taxed beyond their powers in attempting to portray its features. Language and illustration combined must fail.” -John Wesley Powell
(If you want to hear the song “Glorious” by MaMuse, you should be able to find it here. If this link doesn’t work, please let me know.) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D75010fQY-0
I’ll be honest – I don’t like people! Well actually, I don’t dislike all people all the time. My antisocial tendencies only really kick in when I’m seeking solitude and escape from civilization. When I’m in the wilderness I don’t want to see anyone else. Selfishly (and unrealistically) I want it all for myself! Fortunately my lovely bride (and fellow lover of solitude) knows this about me and supports my occasional antisocial behavior. In fact, a while back we collaborated to come up with the perfect introvert backpacking trip. We planned to spend several days roaming off trail in the Grenadier mountains in the already remote Weminuche wilderness of southwestern Colorado. It was everything an introvert could hope for.
We started our trip in the parking lot at the Molas trailhead waiting for heavy rain to move out of the area. We’re not made of sugar and history has proven that we won’t melt if we get wet. But still – all evidence to the contrary – we are neither sadistic nor masochistic. As the day wore on, we (endlessly) weighed our options – bag it and start tomorrow, or just go for it? The forecast called for better weather the next day, but we were ready to go today. Finally we got a little break in the rain and decided to head out. The “on trail” portion of our trip took us down to the Animas River, and then up Elk Creek as far as the “Beaver Ponds.” As expected we slogged through some heavy downpours. Fortunately these were interspersed with bits of sunshine.
Perfect weather for a hike!
Let the adventure begin. If you look in the upper right hand corner, you can see that this is actually a blue bird day!
Doesn’t look like it, but we’re waiting for some heavy rain to pass.
The real fun began the next day. Up, and up and up into the Vestal basin below Arrowhead Peak, the amazing Wham ridge on Vestal, and farther up – the Trinity Peaks. We got to the end of the trail (our goal) and just kept heading up the valley until we found a nice camp spot in a high meadow. One might assume, that after a long day we’d both be ready to spend the remaining hours before bed just lounging around camp. One might…and one would assume incorrectly. Sharon decided to go exploring in the direction of Wham ridge and made it to the base. I was content sitting around until Sharon shamed me with her energy. I thought I’d head up just to the top of the small ridge above our camp. Of course, there was another slightly higher ridge that promised an even better view…and so on, until I was able to get a good look at our route for the next day.
The trail heading up to the Vestal Basin. Arrowhead Peak in the background.
Wham Ridge on Vestal Peak.
Camped at 12,000′, looking down valley at Vestal and Arrowhead Peak.
Sharon listening to the mountains calling her name.
Nice side view of Wham Ridge.
Our plan for the next several days was to continue off trail. Next day would be a short day, heading over the unnamed, but informally and aptly named “No Pass Pass” or “Gnarly Ass Pass” and descend to Trinity Lake. Then we would find our way over two passes in order to camp near Leviathan Lake to the south. From Leviathan we would make our way down valley to pick up a major trail that would eventually take us north to Highland Mary Lakes, and then out to our car. That was the plan. Of course, as always, subject to change.
Next morning, No Pass Pass was the first obstacle. When we scrambled up a boulder and scree slope and got our first good look, it was a bit intimidating. When we watched a mountain goat slip on the loose rocks as he made his way over the pass, it didn’t do much for our confidence. But as usual, delirious optimism won the day. As is often the case, reality wasn’t nearly as bad as perception. As we dropped down to the beautiful Trinity Lake, a gnarly, nasty monsoon storm followed us over Gnarly Ass Pass. Even though we hadn’t gone far, Trinity Lake suddenly looked like an excellent place to set up camp.
Gnarly Ass Pass
Looking down at Trinity Lake
Happy to be on top of the pass.
Our work wasn’t done yet. The climb down was pretty steep.
Storm clouds on the horizon. Typical monsoon activity can be a little ‘exciting’ when camped above 12K
Getting ready for the storm.
Next morning – Bluebird skies!
As all the experts say – the most important meal of the day is BREAKFAST in a stunning location.
The route to Leviathan Lake was pretty spectacular. Still plenty of snow up high, even in July. The real challenge though, came as we attempted to descend to Leviathan. Our topo map showed steep terrain, but plenty of possible routes down. This time reality offered up a swift kick to our backsides. We spent several hours working our way down one promising route after another, only to have each cliff out. Which of course meant climbing back up a steep mountain side in search of another possible route. As afternoon turned to early evening, we were starting to get a little concerned. Finally we saw a possible chink the mountain armor. Naturally it required more climbing and a long traverse. When at last we came to a small flat spot, the only one we’d seen in hours, we decided to just call it quits for the day. A brief reconnaissance revealed a place where it looked like we’d be able to descend. With that worry off our minds, we set about enjoying one of the remote, scenic camp spots ever.
Our route took us past this lake and to the valley below the dark face on the right.
Apparently Silex Lake didn’t get the memo that summer had arrived.
Sharon route finding up to the first pass.
Up and over the second pass of the day.
The cliff band that thwarted our efforts to descend.
Finally, after a long day we were thrilled to find the only flat spot we’d seen for hours.
Once again the neighbors stopped by to check us out.
Camp at 12,800′
Day five was turned out to be a beautiful, relaxing and challenging day all rolled into one. The descent required some serious route finding, but we eventually made our way down 800′ to Leviathan Lake. The word ‘blue’ really doesn’t do justice to Leviathan Lake. One is moved to do a synonym search to find a more appropriate descriptor. Azure possibly? Cerulean perhaps? Beautiful definitely!
Stunning Leviathan Lake
After a break spent on the shoreline enjoying the views, we dropped another 500′ to a smaller lake. Since we’d gotten an early start and were making good time, and since the views were so spectacular, we decided to spend a few hours at this lake relaxing, reading, chatting, and exploring.
To quote Sharon “This doesn’t suck!”
Our little lounging lake with Mt. Leviathan in the background.
Unfortunately, time waits for no one. The time came for us to leave our little paradise and return to the trails and people below. With the possible exception of our previous day’s difficulties, wandering about above timberline is a joy. Wandering about below timberline is a chore. With no trail to follow, and no direction to go other than “down” we began to make our way to the valley floor. Enough to say that it was tough going. Eventually we came across little snippets of trail scattered about in the woods. Gradually the little snippets joined together to form a real trail leading us a crossing of Vallecito Creek. Once across, we were back to established trails and back to what we thought of as “civilization” … even though it was still far removed in the middle of a wilderness area. The previous days of off trail travel had delivered on the promise of solitude.
After several days above 12,000′ we were back down in the thick air and balmy temps at 10,000′ along the Vallecito trail.
Day six was a long day north along the Vallecito trail, across on a stretch of the Continental Divide Trail, eventually bringing us to the Highland Mary lakes. While the trail was beautiful in its own right and passed through some lovely terrain, it suffered only by comparison to the sublime heights from which we had just descended. Incessant forward motion carried us thirteen long miles over passes and through valleys. The Highland Mary Lakes were a welcome sight.
Out of the valley and back up above timberline – not once, but twice in a single day.
This is why people come to the Continental Divide trail. Miles of beautiful hiking above timberline.
Enjoying a little R & R after a long day on the trail.
Looking south at the Grenadier Range – Vestal and Arrowhead Peaks –
from whence we came.
Back above 12,000′ – campsite at Highland Mary Lakes.
Last morning on the trail.
The final mile down the road to where Aaron left our car.
As usual, our last day was bittersweet. Obviously we looked forward to something other than trail food. A hot shower is always welcome. Seeing family in Durango is always a joy. Days in the wilderness however, bring a special satisfaction that is unmatched in civilization. Thanks Weminuche, for a wet, wild and wonderful week!
Scottish poet Bobbie Burns famously said, “The best laid schemes o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley.” In other (plain English) words…sometimes your plans go to crap. Occasionally this gloomy Scottish view of life has proven to be true. When you are planning a trip into the Grand Canyon at the end of June, plans gang aft agley. There are plenty of opportunities for serious misery and suffering. June in the Canyon generally brings surface of the sun temps and crowds of misguided tourons roaming the trails…two of my favorite things. But you know what, sometimes…things turn out even better than planned. We’d both read glowing reports of the beautiful pools and waterfalls of Phantom Creek, a small side creek just north of Phantom Ranch. For that adventure, in spite of the drawbacks, summer really was the right time.
So with irrational optimism firmly in place, we set out to fill the extra four spots on our permit. Co-worker Karen seemed an obvious choice. As far as I knew, Karen never met an outdoor adventure or challenge she didn’t like. A year earlier she had been part of a Diapers and Depends Expedition on the Escalante route and had been on several other Canyon hikes. True to form, she was the first to say yes. Then she said, “There is an intern in our office this summer. She’s really nice and she likes to do stuff like this. Could she come along?” Absolutely! Two down, two to go. Next to sign up was our downstairs neighbor Heather. She hadn’t much (any?) backpacking experience. Perfect – she wouldn’t know any better. Plus she was a great person and a joy to spend time with. That left one open spot on the permit.
Allow me to digress. Sharon and I were on our way home from a long Colorado weekend. Passing through Kayenta, we saw a touring cyclist standing with a cardboard sign that read “Flagstaff”. Having toured, and knowing that it was a hot, windy, two day ride to Flagstaff, we immediately stopped and offered a ride. With his bike strapped on top of the 4Runner, we proceeded to get to know Sander van (lots of letters) from the Netherlands. He’d spent six weeks on his bicycle touring the southwest. Now he was nursing a sore knee and wanted to get back to Flagstaff where he had started his trip. He was an extremely pleasant young man. At one point we started talking about the Grand Canyon and Sharon gave me the wide eyed questioning look. I nodded. She offered that if he had the time, we had an open spot on our permit to camp in the Canyon a few days hence. And just like that, our permit was filled.
Having the day off, Sharon and Sander left early and spent the day lounging in the shade along Bright Angel Creek. Heather, Karen, Jeannette and I headed to the Canyon after work to make a late afternoon dash down the Kaibab. Very early on it became apparent that this was going to be a special trip. As the girls got to know each other, they shared their insights into men and dating – as if I wasn’t there. The knowledge I gained on the drive would have been valuable info 40 years earlier. C’est la vie!
Karen, Heather and Jeannette at the south Kaibab. To beat the heat we opted for a late afternoon start.
Our favorite portion of the s. Kaibab at my favorite time of day.
Normally we sleep under the stars in the Canyon. Mice and scorpions at Bright Angel led us to bring tents. It was so hot, 2nd night we decided we’d leave the mice and scorpions alone and trust them to do the same.
What was special was that this group of semi-strangers very quickly melded into a congenial, fun loving unit. After dark that first evening together, we all walked down to the boat beach and laid on the sand. There in the dark, watching shooting stars, listening to the whisper of the water, we took turns telling stories about ourselves and hearing the stories of others. We talked about school, work, adventures, plans and dreams. It was magical. And the real fun hadn’t yet begun!
Day two: A short trip up the north Kaibab brought us to Phantom Creek. We’d walked by this unassuming little side canyon a number of times on our hikes and never really noticed it. We spent the entire day talking, laughing, exploring, splashing, swimming, building butt dams and in general, seizing the carp.
Ready to leave the n. Kaibab …and the shade.
It was blazing hot – as expected – but we were in water all day.
River Trip motto holds true here as well. “If you’re hot – you’re stupid”
Fine looking group
The creek drops from one pour over, waterfall and swimming hole to the next.
Heather, Sander and Jeannette demonstrating proper hydration technique. Sander no doubt was pinching himself to see if he was dreaming, and certainly considered himself the luckiest man on earth.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaah!
Butt dam
It was truly one of those perfect days. Time passed without us being aware of its passing. With nowhere to go and all day to get there, we lounged in pools until it seemed time to look around the corner to see what the next pool or waterslide looked like. And so the day passed into evening. Back at camp everyone pondered sleeping options to make the heat slightly less oppressive. For most of us, that meant ditching the tents. The picnic table was prime real estate…the picnic table bench quite less so. Thankfully the mice and scorpions respected our personal space on the ground and left us alone. In any case, we weren’t going to be sleeping long. We, along with half the campground, were up and on the trail long before sunrise to get as far as possible before the Orb of Death made its appearance.
Burns was right…plans often don’t go as planned. Sure, sometimes things can go pear shaped and misery ensues. But just as often, at a time and in a place when you don’t necessarily expect it, with people you may not really know, magic can strike and things can go far better than planned. The thing is – you never know which kind of trip you’re on until you’re in it. One thing’s for certain. If the fear of things going wrong keeps you from getting out and taking chances, its certain you’ll never experience the magic of spending an amazing weekend with special people. Thanks to Sharon, Sander, Karen, Jeannette, and Heather for a memorable time.
A while back Sharon and I watched a documentary titled, “Mile – Mile and a Half“. A handful of artsy-fartsy friends gather to through hike the 210 mile length of the John Muir Trail. I ended up not caring much for the folks in the film. But after seeing the amazing scenery, my thought was “Wow!That is definitely on the list!!”
Fast forward a year…an email arrives. Steve Randazzo and Michele Boyer have gotten a permit and are planning on hiking roughly half of the JMT. Would we be interested in joining them? Short answer – yes!!! The long answer was a bit more involved. For a group hike with folks of varying fitness levels and different ideas of “fun” – Steve’s itinerary was deemed to be a bit…aggressive. Steve and Michele planned to use ultralightweight gear made of pixie dust, unicorn blood and baby seal tears, thus enabling them to log major miles every day, with no rest/weather days planned. Steve claims not to be German, but the plan seemed crafted in the finest Teutonic fashion. “Vee hike NOW!Macht Schnell!” This led to an endless series of emails with folks debating distances, different starting/stopping points, people dropping out, agreeing to go, deciding not to, etc. Eventually we managed to agree on a slightly modified version of Steve’s original plan and from that point on the discussion was all about gear, food, logistics…the fun stuff.
Fast forward to Friday, August 19th. Dan Boss Backer, Steve, Michele, Phil Petersen (of Green Bay fame) and I made the long, long, drive from Flagstaff to Mammoth Lakes. We took one short detour (and wild death ride – thanks Steve) to South Lake outside Bishop to leave a vehicle for the end of our trip. A short time later we were in Mammoth Lake with our permit in hand. Next morning, there we were at Red’s Meadow, all showery fresh smiles and delirious optimism, ready to take on the JMT.
Michele, Steve, Dan Boss, Dave, PhilA short distance from Red’s Meadow, we crossed the JMT. Due to permit issues, we had to take the Fish Creek Trail for the first day and a half. Our goal for the first night was the Iva Belle hot springs.
As I prepared for this trip, I purposely did NOT read the countless blogs that gave mile by mile descriptions of the trail, complete with beautifully composed photographs. I wanted (as much as possible) to “discover” the trail all by myself and leave open the possibility of being surprised by what I found. With that in mind, I’d like to offer a slightly different travelogue. We started at Red’s Meadow. Nine days later we came out over Bishop Pass and ended at South Lake. I’d like to simply share a few highlights of the area between those two points…broken down by campsites, high lakes, rivers and memorable moments. Hopefully you’ll like what you see enough to want to explore it for yourself.
Campsites: Pulling into camp was one of the highlights each day – in part because almost all the sites offered amazing views – in part because we were glad to be done so we could relax – and in part so we could relax, chat, eat and get supine.
Camp 1: The joys of supinity at Iva Belle. Michele and Steve relaxed while Dan, Phil and I explored the hot springs.
Camp 1: With a threat of rain, this was the only night I put up the new KB tarp tent
Camp 2: Squaw Lake a bit shy of Silver Pass
Camp 2: Beautiful weather and a beautiful sunset
Camp 2: Camp chairs may have seemed like unnecessary weight for folks trying to go lightweight. It felt soooo good to relax in a chair each night. Dan and Phil used the REI branded Helinox. I had a Crazy Creek which provided additional padding under my sleeping bag.
Camp 3: An amazing late day find a few miles southeast of Lake Thomas Edison at approximately 9,300′
Camp 3: Six of the eight nights I slept under the stars…with amazing views.
Camp 3: Chillaxin’ … journaling…waiting along with the others for the Orb of Death to warm things up before starting the day. Doesn’t get much better than this.
Camp 3: This was such a glorious spot, especially with the early morning sun, no one was in any hurry to hit the trail. This was also where we earned the name “Team Yard Sale”
Camp 4: Marie Lake after a shorter day.
Camp 4: Marie Lake…elevation 10,571′
Camp 4: Leaving camp. In the background the peak I tried to climb the day before. Got driven off close to the summit by a thunderstorm
Camp 6: Paiute Creek in Kings Canyon.
Camp 5: Paiute Creek. Finished early and were able to bathe, wash, lounge and explore. Good day.
Camp 6: Evolution Lake. Weather continued to cooperate, so another beautiful night under the stars.
Camp 6: Dan and Phil’s views didn’t suck. (would have been nicer without a tent…just saying!)
Camp 6: Team Yard Sale hard at work relaxing.
Camp 7: The calm after the storm. Tents pitched in record time just as a massive thunderstorm hit.
Camp 7: Tough guy Dan checking the frosty morning conditions in his shorts…of course. The guys were nice enough to allow me to join them and not have to pitch the tarp tent. Pretty limited space for another tent.
Camp 8: Last night contemplation in the “Land of the Lost”
Camp 8: Dan and Phil with our new friend Jerry from Houston. Nice guy that we picked up at Evolution Lake.
Camp 8
Rivers and Lakes: If you’re in the Sierra Nevada mountains, it is kind of obvious that mountains would be the main scenic feature. They certainly did not disappoint. On our trip along the JMT though, it was water in all its glorious forms…waterfalls, streams, ponds, hot springs, marshes, high alpine lakes, even rain and rainbows that made it such a magical place.
“after ten years of wandering and wondering in the heart of it, rejoicing in its glorious floods of light, the white beams of the morning streaming through the passes, the noonday radiance on the crystal rocks, the flush of the alpenglow, and the irised spray of countless waterfalls, it still seems above all others the Range of Light.” John Muir
“Another glorious Sierra day in which one seems to be dissolved and absorbed and sent pulsing onward we know not where. Life seems neither long nor short, and we take no more heed to save time or make haste than do the trees and stars. This is true freedom, a good practical sort of immortality.” John Muir
Nothing quite so fine as relaxing next to a rushing stream
Never has a stream so cried out for someone to walk barefoot in its flow…
Phil on the JMT…not looking for his car I might add.
Memorable Moments: With the passage of time, memories of a good trip merge together like the seasoning of a fine meal. All the individual ingredients no longer stand alone in sharp relief, but meld to create a warm glow or a pleasant sensation when brought to mind. Pictures and journals help to capture some of the individual memories that make a trip special. Here are a few!
Trail names seemed a natural part of the hike…
“Razor” …really Dan???
“FloJo”…rocking yet another portion of the JMT
“White Stallion” trying to impress FloJo by flexing his thighs…
“Kilt Lifter” demonstrating proper relaxation technique in the camouflage KB Extreme Rain Kilt 2.0
“Yard Sale” Petersen, so name for his somewhat relaxed gear storage technique. Team Mascot
Blister abatement on FloJo’s feet was a constant and (mostly losing) battle. In spite of it all, Michele was an amazing trooper.
Our one bear encounter. The bear never even acknowledged our existence. Had someplace to be …apparently.
An entire herd of pack horses got out of their enclosure and decided to go for a walk…up and over a pass…some ten miles from home. We met their handlers later in the day trying to catch up to them.
The gang (with our new friend Jerry) at Bishop Pass – everything was downhill after this.
Bittersweet. I always hate the end of a trip. Well done Team Yard Sale
“Nevermore, however weary, should one faint by the way who gains the blessings of one mountain day; whatever his fate, long life, short life, stormy or calm, he is rich forever.” John Muir
When one lives in the figurative shadow of the Grand Canyon, one is almost duty bound not only to visit, but to visit regularly. At first the main “corridor” trails are enough to reveal the treasures that lie below the rim. Eventually though, familiarity breeds a desire to know the Canyon more intimately, and to seek out more remote places. One such gem is the Battleship formation – remote – yet clearly visible to anyone hiking the Bright Angel trail.
Andrew O, Cailie B and I all rolled out of bed early in the middle of the night to meet up so we could arrive at the top of the BA trailhead at first light.
Two smiles: Clearly adequate coffee is on board.Early morning light on the Battleship
Since Andrew and Cailie have only one hiking speed, in no time at all we came to the path “less traveled by.” We left the Bright Angel and started our traverse. Distance to the base of the Battleship is approximately one mile of slow route finding. Quite often the “obvious” path up or down leads to a dead end and a fair amount of unnecessary climbing and descending…all part of the appeal of getting off the corridor highways.
As countless others have discovered…April is the perfect time of year for Canyon hiking. The Orb of Death has not yet gained full strength.
I’m sure with handy internet descriptions, many have found the route to the top. Seems to me though, that the Battleship is a hike that lends itself to going with someone who has been there before. Andrew was our guide, and even with his near photographic memory, we still wandered a bit near the base of the butte trying to find the route. Having been deemed most expendable by Andrew (and most capable) Cailie got volunteered to scout possible routes.
Not it…thanks anyway Cailie
Following the “even a blind squirrel finds a nut occasionally” principle, we eventually came around to the correct path. Even when you find the correct route, it is often not obvious and requires a bit of exploring and a few rock climbing moves.
Andrew’s most flattering angle.
The route finding and climbing eventually came to an end. We were rewarded with the usual amazing views. Views we have come to expect yet of which we never tire.
The top of the Battleship offers this unique view of the Bright Angel trail.
Turns out this was our way of celebrating “Fresh Tomato Day” (4/6/13). Thanks Cailie for that useful bit of info for the summit register. On a subsequent visit our log entry was easy to find…in two years fewer than 30 groups had signed in. This turned out to be yet another successful (and enjoyable) Diapers and Depends Expedition.
The following is a slightly abridged version of conversations that took place in the fall of 2011
Dan B. (via email) “Anyone want to go trekking in Nepal for a month?”
Dave and Sharon “Sure!”
Sharon in the OR “We’re going trekking in Nepal”
Rob (Nurse anesthetist in the same OR) “Can Cailie and I come?”
Sharon and Dave “Sure!”
Rob “How about my backdoor buddy Andrew?”
Sharon, Dave, and Dan “Sure!”
Fast forward, February 2012: Rob, Cailie, Andrew, Dave, Sharon, with sons Aaron and Kevin walk to the edge of South Canyon at the top of the “UPS Route”. As soon as we look over the edge, laughter erupts. Where we expect a trail, there is a cliff with only the slightest hint of a trail…really just a faint path that looks like it might have hopes and dreams of one day growing up to become a trail. With an attitude of “what could possibly go wrong?” we step into space. Thus began the first Diapers and Depends Expedition.
“There’s a trail here?”
Let me back up. Rob, Cailie and Andrew lived in the same subdivision with adjoining back yards (ergo: back door buddies) and had become good friends. Sharon knew Rob only from an occasional surgical case together. I don’t know any of them. Since we were planning to spend an entire month together in Nepal, it seemed wise for those of us in Flagstaff to get to know each other. A gnarly Canyon backpacking micro adventure seemed the perfect way to get acquainted. Which led us back to the edge of the South Canyon.
We don’t need no stinkin’ trail…
We chose that particular route because the “UPS Route” was reported to be the shortest route to the river, and this was meant to be a quick overnight trip. Sharon, I and the boys spent the night at the trailhead. As soon as Rob, Cailie and Andrew arrived at the butt crack of dark, we saddled up and still laughing, dropped off the edge.
Note: Dislodging rocks on fellow hikers is considered a party foul.
The hike into South Canyon ended up becoming a perfect metaphor for our goal for the weekend. While we had some general knowledge of South Canyon, it was a new hike for all of us. Similarly, we all knew a little bit about each other, but there was a great deal of unknown. As we dropped farther into the Canyon and rounded corners, the Canyon kept revealing itself in small, interesting ways and in sweeping scenes of dramatic beauty. So it was with our hiking companions. In dozens of different conversations, in turn with each of our fellow explorers, we both revealed and learned interesting little nuggets about each other.
South Canyon panorama.
As we made short work of the descent, a few things quickly became apparent. First, everyone was a strong hiker and comfortable in the outdoors. While it is fun introducing newbies to such things, it is great when people come already equipped with a strong skill set. Instead of learning how to hike in challenging conditions, properly adjust a backpack, or eat and drink appropriately, we simply went about enjoying the experience and each other. Second, this was an easygoing group. Almost immediately we established an easy rapport, with lots of give and take, serious conversation, joking and laughter. Finally, it became clear early on that this group was going to make going to Nepal even more special.
The steepest part of the descent was behind us as we reached the canyon floor.Canyon traverse
After about a mile of steep descent, we more or less reached the bottom of South Canyon. The “trail” continued on for another two miles or so. We dropped in and out of the canyon bottom and eventually came to a decision point. To the right we could have entered a narrow section of slots, or to the left a traverse along the side of the canyon. We chose the traverse and after some relatively easy walking, arrived at the beach above Vasey’s Paradise. As long as we were in the sun, it was shorts and T-Shirt weather…pretty special for a mid-winter hike.
Gotta love T-Shirts and a beach in February.
We spent a pleasant evening at the River enjoying some good food, good company, lots of laughter, and one curious ring tail cat. Next morning we shouldered our packs for the hike out. As expected, it was downright brutal at times. Still, all the young un’s (the Diapers gang) and the oldsters (the Depends contingent) all made the climb with no problems. The first Diapers and Depends Expedition was a success!
Aaron, Sharon, Kevin, Andrew, Rob and Cailie (the Gnome Princess – all 4′ 12″ of her)
