R2J(uneau) #3

On August 25, 2024September 1, 2024 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road3 Comments

August 18 – 24, 2024

Sunday, August 18 (Day 16): It was truly a day of rest. It was delightful. Since leaving Anchorage, I’ve ridden every day and slept in a different spot every night. It is a rare luxury to wake up knowing where you will lay your head that night and not having to expend energy to get there.

That’s not to say I wasn’t busy. The morning was devoted to the blog. I had fascinating conversations with several of the travelers passing through these portals. One of the hostel hosts is a young woman from Osaka, Japan. Last year, without any experience with such things, she bicycled across Canada! Coast to coast! We had many lovely conversations. An Italian couple had taken pack rafts down the Yukon River. Liv and Noah were on their return journey to Portland after motorcycling all over Alaska. A woman from Edmonton (PCT through hiker and accomplished bike packer) was on a road trip with lady friends, hiking every day along the way. Everyone has a story. I simply have to ask, “What’s your adventure?” All that talk made me thirsty, so it was off to the hub of Haines Jct, the Village Bakery, for a sandwich and Yukon Brewing “Lead Dog Ale.”

For a rest day, this would have been enough. I ended up spending a great deal of time and brain energy deciding, “What’s next?” On to Calgary? The “Golden Circle?” The regular AK highway instead of the more remote Cassiar? I listened to each option making a compelling case to be chosen. I interrogated each vigorously, “Why should I choose you? What makes you special?” I consulted Sharon. I tried to honestly evaluate my own motivation and interest level. Eventually, plans were made. I fly home to Durango from Juneau on September 1st. It has been a good trip – no, a great trip! I feel, though, that it has been enough. Even with the new plan, there is much travel and exploring to be done.

For those of you wondering since last week’s cliffhanger: my shy kidney stone either passed undetected during the night (one can hope), or is waiting for a more inopportune time to make it’s escape.

Monday, August 19 (Day 17): I left town early with a full belly – thank you again Village Baker. I also left with only a slightly full-er food sack. Slim pickins in these here parts. I left town eager for the next stage of my journey. In defiance of the 100% forecast for rain, the sun broke out. Expecting rain and getting sun? Brilliant! It was a rare T-shirt and shorts day. The lakes, ponds, and sky seemed more blue. The trees, bushes, and flowers a more vivid green. The mountains – more majestic. On a day like this, headwinds and hills didn’t phase me. They were simply part of the scenery. I was in my happy place.

Unbeknownst to me, I had been passed on the road earlier by Liz and Jim. They gave me a warm welcome as I rolled into the campground. After chores, I was invited to share a beer with them and the rest of the clan. Son John and wife Mariela from Juneau, and John’s childhood friend Riley. What a fun and fun-loving group of adventurers. What a privilege to be welcomed into their embrace for an evening. I went to bed that evening full, filled with experience and friendship.

Tuesday, August 20 ( Day 18): I awoke early to the sound rain drops hesistantly tapping the tent. “Sorry to bother you boss!” This was not unexpected. I rushed to pack and moved under cover at one of the cooking shelters. My plan was to get things sorted properly and move on after breakfast. Then I met Xavier.

Xavier is thirty-one and originally from Montreal. He now resides in Whitehorse. He is a Phy. Ed. teacher who takes youth on outdoor adventures – some quite grueling. He is a part-time guide. He just returned from a twenty-one day trip as an assistant guide on an Arctic river canoe trip. We planned to have breakfast and go our separate ways. Heavy rain and stomach issues had me reluctant to leave. The thought of a third cup of coffee had Xavier reluctant to leave. So we started a fire and began to chat. What followed was hours of wide-ranging and, at times, intense conversation. I think neither of us wanted it to end. As morning turned to afternoon, it was finally to bid adieu.

Outside the shelter – cold, raw, waves of water. Inside, dry with a warm barrel stove. I saw no need to leave. My new plan offers a great deal of flexibility in how I fill the next two weeks. An afternoon reading, writing, and gnoshing seems a perfect way to spend a rainy day. Plus, I have Xavier’s local knowledge assuring me this storm will blow through and bring clear skies and a cold north wind to help me on my way south.

It was not the day I planned. It was far better! I’ve learned to embrace these unexpected moments as the gifts they are.

Wednesday, August 21 ( Day 19): Eyes open. Xavier was half right. Sunshine on the tent. Yes! A clear night also meant frozen water bottles and frost everywhere. Only two thousand vertical feet separate me from fresh snow on the surrounding peaks. No worries, though. It is a bluebird day.

Less than half mile down the road my front tire felt squishy. Quick stop to patch a leak, and I’m off again…uphill for five miles. It’s going to be that kind of day. Before long, I’m joined by my old friend the headwind. Can’t say I enjoy the company, but it doesn’t matter. The riding today is spectacular. The terrain to Haines Pass reminds me of the Arctic along the Dalton Highway down from Prudhoe Bay. Remote. A scale that is humbling. I want days like this to never end.

Slowly grinding up a long hill I was a startled when a car slowed and kept pace alongside. “Hey mate! Need some water or food?” Please, and thank you! I was down to my last 1/2 liter thinking I should stop and filter some. Aussie Rick and Cash graciously topped me off and sent me on my way, buoyed by their exuberance and kindness.

The payback was worth all the climbing. With gravity on my side (finally) the miles flew by. I could just sit back and enjoy the view. My last night in Canada was in a quiet clearing next to a rowdy stream. Good stuff.

Thursday, August 22 (Day 20): Yesterday – sunshine. Today – the familiar pitter patter on the tent. Crap! I burrowed deeper into my bag. I hate a wet tent in the morning! Thirty minutes later, I heard silence. I took advantage of this tiny weather window to get on the road without everything else getting soaked.

Top to bottom rain gear was the order of the day. Not to be outdone in doling out misery, the headwind piled on for the last sixteen miles. Really?? Even with suboptimal conditions, it was possible to admire the massive, braided glacial rivers surging toward the ocean.

I spent an afternoon in the Haines library, drying out, warming up, and making plans for the next ten days here, in Skagway, and Juneau. The forecast for the entire region complicates planning somewhat.

By day’s end, I am dry, warm, and have what seems like a workable plan to remain so in each of these locations. Oceanside RV would normally not be my “go to” camping spot. It is a blacktop parking lot filled with hulking behemoths. In one corner, however, a tiny plot of grass has been set aside for tents.

Bonus points for a) a location literally feet from the ocean, b) in town next to groceries, restaurants, and a brewery, and c) a modern clubhouse where I can take a hot shower and get out of the rain.

Luxury. Included in the price of a camp site

Friday, August 23 (Day 21): Last night, I overheard two women answering questions from an inquisitive twelve year old girl. From their answers, I gathered they were in rowing sculls on some sort of trip. I’ll say!!! Laura and Ashlie built their own boats, then paddled here from their home on Vancouver Island!! “Epic” hardly encompasses what they’ve accomplished. I was up early with them, chatting and watching as they packed their boats for the last time. When they arrive in Skagway later today, their trip will be over! Wow! Congratulations! If you’re interested, check out their Instagram page rookie.rowers. It is a hoot!

Today was a special gift. The forecast is for rain everywhere, every day until I leave AK. Instead, clouds dissipated enough to offer stunning views from Mt. Riley.

View from Mt. Riley

Clouds continued to dissipate, so I took advantage of the sunshine. I walked around town. Talked to locals. Talked to folks here in the park. Called Sharon. Texted family and friends. Enjoyed easy access to a well stocked grocery store (perhaps too much?) The day passed about as quickly as it took you to read about it.

Saturday, August 24 (Day 22): For three weeks I’ve camped in bear territory. I’ve seen footprints and scat, but (thankfully) no Ursus Arctos Horribilis in the flesh. This morning at 3am I was jolted awake by a handheld airhorn and someone shouting, “Get the F&@* out of here!” I correctly assumed it was the brown bear that’s been active in this area. I few moments later I heard loud splashing twenty feet below my tent as the bear made its way along the beach. Rather than stay in my bag like a giant corn dog, I got out with my bear spray to make sure she was, in fact, moving along. Good thing I decided not to moisterize with my bacon grease body creme!

A few hours after that excitement, Daniel and Hannah arrived, after twenty straight hours on the water.

For eighty-five days they pedaled, paddled, and of course sailed this tiny Hobie all the way from Seattle. They strapped the SUPs to the amas for gear storage and lounging space. Amazing!!!! I’m beginning to feel a bit inadequate. Clearly I’m going to have to up my game to stay in this campground.

It was a raw day, but until the rain started in earnest, I wanted to see as much of Haines as I could. As Frost said, “Knowing how way leads on to way,
I doubted if I should ever come back.” It seems unlikely I will pass this way again. So to satisfy my curiosity (and get some exercise) I rode around town, then out along the coast.

Like so many places in Alaska, it is beautiful – but life here is hard. Almost everyone, it seems, does the shuffle and works more than one job to make ends meet. Summer is short and moist. And of course the winters…well. A local state trooper told me about the challenges of raising his family here, and keeping his children occupied during the long, dark winters. I met a young woman in her 20’s. She was born and raised here. She loves Haines. She loves guiding river trips for cruise ship passengers. Well, she loves being on the river. “Come February,” she said, “it starts to get grim. People kind of start to lose it.”

All that said, everyone I’ve talked to loves it here. I suppose those that don’t, don’t stick around. As a tourist, I simply enjoy the beauty, and move on. Which is what I’ll be doing tomorrow. But that’s another story. So until next week – keep living the dream. STC!

Great White North #2

On August 8, 2024August 10, 2024 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, Water Stuff3 Comments

July 21 – August 2

Sunday – July 21 (Day 6): Sunshine? Check! Downhill? Check! Tailwind? Check! Moose sighting? Check! Scenic wonders? Check! I guess it was a good day cycling. Another relaxed morning meant we rolled into Seward mid-day. Little did we realize this is where Alaska starts. We thought we’d been in AK all along.

Although I’d lived in AK for six years, somehow I’d never made it to this pleasant little corner of the state. As the landscape unfolded and the ocean came into view, my first thought was, “this looks like pictures I’ve seen of the Lofoten Islands of Norway.” As if all this beauty wasn’t enough, the threatening clouds eventually parted. We happily spent the afternoon on a beach at road’s end watching life run, walk, swim, and paddle by.

The real treat though, awaited us back in town. Linda and her sister Kathy greeted us from the front yard, as we rolled up to her house. Linda is a highly regarded Warmshower host in Seward, with good reason. In addition to her incredible generosity, Linda has taken her bicycle to corners of the world we haven’t considered even in our wildest dreams. All in the name of “staying away from touristy areas!” All of that while doing the Alaska hustle of working multiple jobs. Wow! While not interested in the cycling lifestyle, we enjoyed listening to Kathy’s stories as well. We immediately felt welcome, well fed, and completely at home. What a great place to land for a few days while we explore the Seward area.

Monday, July 22 ( Day 7):

I’ve pointed this out before, but our “glamorous” life on the road is often rather mundane. We went shopping for breakfast and bought makings for dinner. We gave our vile clothes much needed attention at the laundromat. When the expected rain arrived, we went back to Linda’s to grab lunch, chat with Kathy, and spend an “indoorsy” day relaxing.

Tuesday, July 23 (Day 8): Imagine an eighteen mile wide sheet of ice, several thousand feet thick stretching all the way from Durango to Silverton. That is the Harding Icefield (18 miles by 48 miles). If you include the forty glaciers spilling off this sheet of the ice, the icefield covers 1100 square miles. All of which is to say this thing is HUGE. Fortunately, anyone interested in getting up close and personal with this behemoth can do with just a short drive out of town and a vigorous hike. Please and thank you!

As expected, the hike did not disappoint. As expected, it was a quad killer. As expected, we were rewarded with expansive views of the glacier, and a tiny portion of the vast icefield. Later, less than a minute of hitching netted us a ride back to town where medicinal hoppy beverages soothed our aching muscles.

Wednesday, July 24 (Day 9): For the past 94 years, highly motivated individuals have raced 1.5 miles and 3,000′ up Mount Marathon, then hurtled themselves almost straight down scree slopes, chutes and gullies. As mere mortals, we chose to use our second good weather day to ascend the (only slightly less steep) “hikers” trail up this storied peak. Our quads did not take kindly to the abuse. Most of the climb was through a foggy soup. Near the top, however, we emerged above a sea of clouds. Insert your favorite superlative here…

Clearly, the Alaska scenery is stunning. It has been well worth the effort to reach the places we’ve seen. It is especially satisfying to do so by human powered “slow” travel. The real allure of travel, however, is people. E.g. John and his daughter Kat who gave us a ride into town yesterday and shared a little slice of their lives. Linda and Kathy, who shared their home, food and stories, laughter and insights. We are forever grateful for all these moments.

Thursday, July 25 (Day 10): Today was a transition day. We moved from Linda’s house to a local hotel. We switched from bike touring mode to thinking about the upcoming kayak trip. Rob and Megan, friends from Durango, arrived in the morning. Part of the day was spent chatting, sightseeing, and organizing gear. Later, with Dan added to the mix, we gathered at a local brew pub for amazing grub!

Friday, July 26 (Day 11): The soggy day squished some plans, but we all (separately and as a group) found plenty to keep us occupied. Highlights included a film in the library about the 1964 earthquake and its devastating impact on Seward. There was another fine meal of local delights and delightful conversation. Finally, we met at the Kayak Adventures shop for pre-trip briefing. Our impossibly young looking guide, Cole, seems personable and enthusiastic. Excitement level is high. By all appearances, this is going to be a memorable experience.

Saturday, July 27 ( Day 12): I have dreamed about a mothership kayak trip for well over a decade. Since booking this trip a year ago, it has been a regular topic of discussion. Under those circumstances, reality often has a hard time living up to expectations. We needn’t have worried.

We left town under blue bird skies and the watchful eyes of the towering peaks lining Resurrection Bay.

Along the way we witnessed “bubble feeding” by humpback whales. A pod of whales exhale (blow bubbles) while circling a school of herring. When the fish concentrate, the whales ascend vertically and feed. The description doesn’t do justice. It was magical to witness. We were in awe at the wonder of it. Apparently, this is one of only two places in the world where whales exhibit this learned behavior.

“Bubble net” feeding

And so it went. Wildlife sightings and dramatic landscapes were constant companions. Occasionally, Cole would offer a tasty bit of interp to help us make sense of, or even further appreciate, what we were seeing. Captain Mike would chime in with local history or salty wisdom as color commentator. Mid-afternoon, we arrived at our first anchorage. After mastering the loading/unloading sequence for the kayaks, we set off for a tour of the next bay.

Back in the warm embrace of our mothership, we enjoyed good food and conversation. I asked someone how they would describe this day to family and friends back home. Their response? “You can’t!” Agreed!

Sunday, July 28 (Day 13): After such an incredible first day, what could we possibly do as an encore? We seemed destined for disappointment. Au contraire! A few miles from our anchorage, the Ailik Glacier awaited. We paddled across the face of the mile wide tidewater glacier, occasionally forcing our way through masses of bergie bits. The thunder of both small and house size slabs of ice crashing into the ocean was almost constant. Harbor seals and sea otters kept watchful eyes on the odd creatures passing through their territory. Even from our vantage point, it was impossible to get our heads around the scale of the glacier and the titanic forces on display before us. We were so mesmerized, the near constant rain barely registered

Later, when the tide turned in our favor, we headed back out into the rain, refueled and refreshed. We paddled south and rode the evening tide into Peterson Lagoon. Low clouds filled the narrow valley as we made our way a mile or so to the back of the lagoon. Cole’s description was apt. Ailik Glacier was a rock song. Peterson was “smooth jazz.” Well said.

The tail end of the flood tide delayed our return to the Starr. When we did arrive, we were in high spirits after another amazing day and great food. The “spirits” continued to flow well into the early hours.

Monday, July 29 (Day 14): Small wonder everyone was reluctant to leave bed this morning. Eventually, Captain Mike served up breakfast and we set forth from our home in Coleman Bay. Today was a different experience. We took our time poking into every nook and cranny along the coast. The intertidal zone is a veritable cornucopia of sea life. Sea stars. Mussels. Barnacles. Kelp. Sea otters. Sea birds of every size and shape. It never gets old.

Eventually, we arrived at a small lagoon that served as home to a multitude of jellyfish. I now can distinguish between Moon, Cross, Egg Yolk, and Lion’s Mane jellyfish. Dinner plate size all the way down to tiny quarter sized specimens. The most dramatic features, though, were the towering waterfalls spilling down sheer cliffs. Alaska’s motto could very well be “Go big or go home!”

Tuesday, July 30 (Day 15): After three days in Ailik Bay, our fearsome leader decreed we would pull anchor and set course for Northwestern Fiord. No, that is not a misspelling. It appears that way on charts and supposedly is an acceptable variant.

The cruise into Northwestern was uneventful. Just more stunning scenery. Miraculously good weather. A single humpback whales entertaining us with full breaches. An interesting feature of this fiord is the terminal moraine many, many miles distant from Northwestern Glacier. At some point in the not too distant past, the glacier extended all the way to this reef. Again, it is almost impossible to ponder the scale. Yawn. Just another day in paradise.

After a long motor, we were all ready to stretch our legs … as it were. Captain Mike dropped us off to paddle while he went ahead to anchor near Erratic Island. When we arrived later, we realized why, after 50 years of piloting vessels, this is his favorite spot. We were not, however, his favorite people when we woke the captain rushing on deck to watch the late arrival of an orca pod. Watch orcas swimming around the boat or seriously piss off the captain? I feel we “chose wisely!”

Wednesday, July 31 (Day 16): It’s not often you get to kayak in a remote wilderness. Much less common is the opportunity to paddle beneath three mammoth glaciers in one day. Even more rare to watch as a ten story building size piece crashes into the ocean before your eyes. After today, we all feel incredibly fortunate to say we’ve done those things once! We also felt fortunate to have spent a second evening in this special place.

Thursday, August 1 (Day 17): Alas! Our time was coming to an end! Instead of motoring farther and farther from port, this morning, we made our first move toward home. Bittersweet! Fortunately, we had a memorable day. First, we were dropped off to explore several coves as we made our way seven miles south to reunite with the Starr. In Cataract Cove, we paddled onto the set of Jurassic Park or Land of the Lost. In one corner, waterfalls plunged down cliffs in spectacular fashion. While we admired that, a curious seal kept popping up to spy on us, often just feet away from our boats. We also witnessed baby sea otters being tended to by their parents. They take cute to a whole new level.

Our last paddle involved an open sea crossing to Granite Island. We all agreed Granite Island would make a perfect location for a super villain’s secret lair. The wind chop and swells kept everyone focused on the task at hand. Back in the lee of the island, we took our time finding our home for the evening. Finally, we entered the forty foot wide entrance to Taz Lagoon, took a victory lap around the tiny Cove, and hauled the boats back on deck for the last time. Sigh.

Our constant paddling companion has been a remarkable young man. Cole grew up in Denver. His K-8 education in an adventure/outdoor experience based school seemed tailor-made to produce the curious, competent, uber enthusiastic guide we had with us. His love for nature (and especially moss) was infectious. His knowledge of the flora and fauna – first rate. It was a joy getting to know and spend time with him.

Andrew probably said it best about Captain Mike. If you plugged into an AI generator “salty Alaskan sea captain” and 3D printed out the result, you’d get Captain Mike. His boat was his domain, and you forgot that at your peril – even if you were the paying guest. At the same time, he was always ready with an entertaining story, a joke, or snappy come back. He has a fierce love for Alaska and these waters.

Friday, August 2 (Day 18): We were treated to one more day of beautiful weather as we made our way back to Seward. As we’d done all week, we spent all seven hours watching with awe as the sea and land fell astern.

And just like that, the trip went from the present to live in the land of memories. We took our sea legs ashore, and after heartfelt good-byes, went our separate ways. For Sharon, Dan, and I, that meant catching the evening train to Anchorage.

Thank you Sharon, Rob, Megan, Andrew, and Dan, for making this truly a trip of a lifetime!

At Home, away from Home?

On October 22, 2023November 1, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn On the Road5 Comments

November 2023

Since returning from our most recent cycle trip, a few folks have asked, “Does it feel good to be home?” Good question with a seemingly obvious and expected answer. Since retiring four plus years ago we’ve spent more time away from Flagstaff than at home. Twelve months were on two wheels in far-off lands and remote regions with only the barest essentials. Over a month has been spent backpacking long distance trails. We’ve lived in the Tardis – our teardrop trailer – for almost half a year. Significant time has been devoted to family visits across the country. Our choice of destinations means we often confront unfamiliar food, language, customs, and challenging living conditions. Our methods of travel mean we are often on intimate terms with Mother Nature’s various weather moods. Given all that, it makes sense that we would share the opinion of Oz’s Dorothy, that “There’s no place like home!” Well….??? “Yes” or “no” is too simplistic. The reality seems more nuanced. We do enjoy being home. We find great pleasure connecting with friends – whether it is an evening at Mother Road, a chance encounter somewhere in town, playing on local trails, or Sunday morning at church. We enjoy the simple pleasure of finding familiar foods in familiar locations at our regular grocery stores. We enjoy getting reacquainted with our favorite offerings from local restaurants. But here’s the thing – we also very much enjoy spending time with people we meet – and have met – on our travels. We love the process of becoming familiar with new and different foods.

So, what to do? How do you balance enjoying the comforts of home with the joys of living on the road. Someone has said, “Never make your home in a place. Make a home for yourself inside your own head. You’ll find what you need to furnish it – memory, family, friends you can trust, love of learning, and other such things. That way it will go with you wherever you journey.” “Never” is perhaps too strong. I think we’ve found it possible to make home both “in a place” AND “wherever you journey.” Especially in recent years as we’ve vigorously indulged our passion for traveling. We usually travel with our tent or the teardrop. In a sense, we take “home” with us. Having a comfortable place to lay our heads goes a long way towards making us feel at home. We have also learned the joy of living simply, taking only what we need and can easily carry. It is possible to feel at home without a building filled with stuff. Wherever and whenever possible, we make it a priority to connect with family and friends. We embrace every opportunity to make new acquaintances. Thus, we are blessed to have people who embrace us and enrich our lives. In addition to all that, and perhaps most important, we have each other. I realize how incredibly blessed I am to have a friend and companion with whom to share this nomadic lifestyle. She doesn’t just tolerate our traveling lifestyle. The ideas behind our more adventurous treks often come from Sharon’s fertile imagination. All of these ingredients combine to make the tasty banquet that is our life. So, back to the question that sparked all this introspection. Does it feel good to be home? I think the real answer is that most times we feel “at home” wherever we are.

In his famous poem, Robert Frost voiced the impossible desire of many who wander…to travel two roads and yet be “one traveler.” Alas, ’tis not possible. There are many paths in life to choose, and choices have to be made. I’ve often said, “Saying “yes” to one path means saying to “no” to many others.” Madness lies down the path of constantly wishing for whatever one does not have in the moment. “I wish I were home” while on the road and “I wish we were traveling” while at home). Seize the Day! Seize the Carp! Embrace the moment! Don’t wish your life away waiting for some magical moment or place where happiness will be served on a platter. Find reasons to enjoy wherever you find yourself at this moment.

We have found great joy during these past months/years on the road, in Europe and at home in the States. No doubt we will find great joy spending the next several months at home in Flagstaff, even as we make plans to possibly relocate “home” to a new city. We also already have a plethora of plans in place to make the road our “home” and will continue to embrace that lifestyle as long as we are physically able. If you’ve made it this far in the post – thanks for sharing this mental journey with me. Hopefully, somewhere or some time our paths will cross. STC!

Life Behind Bars #4

On April 9, 2023April 9, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road8 Comments

April 2 – 8, 2023

April 2 (Day 12). Tavira treated us well. After seven days of riding from Lisbon to Tavira, we biked every day and covered 250 miles. It was the height of luxury to leave the Konas in the store room for a day. But alas, all good things…right? After another fine breakfast feast complements of the Al Muralha hotel we pointed our steeds east. Our goal – Seville. Spain. We estimate three moderate days should get us there by Tuesday night.

Less than two hours from Tavira, we entered the impressively named town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio. Not sure what Tony did, or how he got a town named after him. I do know that Vila Real de Santo Antonio is the last town in Portugal for eastbound travelers. Across the Guadiana River, Spain awaits. A short ferry ride later, we set foot in a new country. Adeus Portugal. Bienvenidos Espana.

Within minutes of our arrival in Ayamonte, we were immersed in a massive Semana Santa (Holy Week) celebration. Elegantly dressed throngs turned out to watch the festivities. Looking wildly out of place in our bike kit, we joined the crowds of onlookers. It was to be an oft-repeated scene this week.

We learned very quickly, that unlike Portugal where almost everyone had a few words of English to offer, in Spain – nada. Given that my Spanish skills are on par with Peggy Hill (sorry for the obscure King of the Hill cartoon reference. Everyone who knows Peggy Hill is likely smiling or laughing right now). As far as I can tell, I haven’t made any offers to marry the farmer’s oldest daughter – yet! I can generally work out what to say, but am totally at a loss deciphering the tsunami of words that come in response.

Most evenings we study our map apps to chart a tentative route for the next day. For this particular day, Sharon had uncovered a gem. It was muy bien! A mile off the main road, down a beautifully maintained gravel road (closed to vehicle traffic I might add), we found ourselves a quiet stretch of beach. We camped behind the dunes, just a short stroll to a prime strip of deserted Atlantic la playa. This is the good stuff.

April 3 (Day 13). We lost an hour coming into Spain. In practical terms, there is just the suggestion of light on the horizon at 7:20am. By 8am it is light enough to break camp and start moving. Well, we could have started at 8am…if we both hadn’t fallen back asleep until the sun had well and truly risen . We rationalized our sloth with the knowledge that night doesn’t make her entrance until after 9pm. No worries about having time to make our miles. Speaking of miles, we rolled across quite a few today. Highlights? We met Cameron from Glasgow. He’s on his first tour from Lisbon to Corfu, Greece for a wedding. (Not his apparently). Along the way he has plans to tour through Morroco and some of the Balkan countries. Way to go mate! I wouldn’t be surprised if our paths crossed again.

Another highlight? Niebla. On the map it’s just a wee town, so no expectations other than to possible camp along a nearby river. Instead we found ancient walls surrounding much of this fortified city. First settled in the 8th century BC by Phoenicians interested in nearby silver mines, since then, Romans, Visigoths, Moors, and various Spanish forces have all called it home. At its height, the perimeter of the wall was just under a mile around and had fifty watch towers! We felt very safe enjoying a meal at a local doner establishment before cranking out the last miles of the day.

On a different note, do you like cured ham? Please and thank you! A local supermercado had this impressive display of tasty, cured pork legs. Watching the butcher shave pieces for a customer was to see a passionate artist at work. Every slice was a masterpiece!

April 4 (Day 14). The day started well. On our way out of town, we stopped to marvel at several Semana Santa floats inside a local church.

Unfortunately, Sharon set down her handlebar bag on a pew. Somehow, we didn’t notice until six miles down the road. Argh! Sharon dropped gear and raced back – to find the church locked. Eventually, with the help of the policia and a finger wagging nun, all was right with the world. We reunited and made our way into Sevilla.

We thought the Semana Santa celebration in Ayamonte was muy grande. In Sevilla, it was next level! We didn’t need to know where the parade took place. We just followed the masses of finely dressed folks. Before long, we came across this…agoraphobe’s nightmare!

You just don’t see this every day

April 5 (Day 15). Sevilla was as beautiful as advertised. As we often do in large cities, we took a “free” walking tour. Alejandra showed us around, providing both historical background as well as details about modern life. Alejandra’s passion for life and her city were infectious. After the tour, we just wandered, stopping along the way for tradtional cervesa y tapas. In our case beer, fried cuttlefish, and pork sirloin in whiskey sauce…mmmmm!

Sevilla was lovely. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring the winding city streets, plazas and promenades. Finally though, shoulder to shoulder, wall to wall people everywhere started to wear. We cherish our personal space. The day ended with a retreat to our apartment for a quiet dinner.

April 6 (Day 16). This morning we opted for a lie in and decided a relaxed approach to the day was in order. We revisited a few tour stops, then made a leisurely exit from Sevilla. In keeping with our unhurried pace, we cycled a few hours, then took a break a short distance from where we hoped to spend the night. We nursed our pequeno Cruzcampos and tried an amazing tapas of shrimp and cheese rolled in a lightly fried pastry and covered in a honey sauce…oh my! Later, a little sleuthing netted a secluded place to call home. Perfecto!

April 7 (Day 17). It is a simple life we lead! Today, and really this whole week, it was bike through long stretches of agriculture. Visit attractive towns and villages. Witness another somber Semana Santa procession – and the slightly odd party atmosphere sounding the solemnity. Find a choice spot to sleep. Eat. Drink. Rinse and repeat.

April 8 (Day 18). Today, we set our sights on Cadiz. Turns out you almost can’t get there from here. We congratulated our cleverness in finding a ferry to take us across Cadiz Bay. This would save ten miles of biking on major highways. Yay us! Except the ferry wasn’t running. Plan B – ride major highways and cross massive bridge. Oops! Bikes are prohibo on massive bridge. Plan C – ride a few miles back to a bus stop. I asked the crowd if this bus was going to Cadiz and would they have room for our bicicletas? Given the puzzled looks, laughter and animated discussions, I’m not actually sure what I asked! When the bus arrived and the driver said “no, it was not possible,” people rallied to our aid. At the last moment, we were waved aboard the handicap entrance at the rear of the bus. Once again, the kindness of strangers (or pity on fools) saved the day.

Cadiz was worth the effort. We were rewarded with another procession, a lovely sunset, and a romantic dinner in an ancient city. We are truly blessed!

STC!

Life Behind Bars – #3

On April 2, 2023April 2, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road4 Comments

March 26 – April 1 – Portugal

Sunday (3/26). Sleep! Twelve glorious, uninterrupted hours of sleep! Those who know me know that twelve hours is unheard of! But, we both have been jet lagged since arrival. We both have been nursing colds, so the lengthy sack time was unbelievably welcome! We did manage to get on the road…eventually. On our way south, we came across three friends from Toronto on their very first bike tour. It looked it. Mountains of gear were precariously strapped on their bikes. They were studying in Germany and simply had used whatever gear was at hand. Good for them! Better to go than to wait until they had all the “right” gear.

The riding south of Lisbon was pleasant enough, but it was also .. unremarkable. At times we were only a few hundred yards from the ocean, yet it remained out of sight. While we appreciate the fact that they haven’t built roads or condos right on the shore – it would have been nice to get a peek at the coast once in a while.

We had a brief moment of panic when our hoped for stopping place turned out to be a “members only” campground. Oops! They graciously gave us special permission to stay the night. Thank you! The steamy hot shower (so often taken for granted) was delightful. Later that evening as we waited to drift off to sleep, we were serenaded by thundrous booming from the crashing waves still a half mile away. We’ve already decided to head there for breakfast spot tomorrow.

Monday (3/27).

The day started well with breakfast on a beautiful stretch of beach. The riding and the views just kept improving as the day wore on. South of Sines, the road followed a jaw-dropping coastline. It culminated at an area of cliffs and sea stacks near Porto Covo. We were fortunate to find an amazing spot to spend the night near all that beauty. Well played Portugal. Well played.

Tuesday (3/28). Camping next to the ocean is incredible. There is nothing like sleeping with the sound of the sea as background music. Downside? Massive condensation. The fly could not have been more soaked if we had submerged it in a sink! We would have to deal with that later.

A fifteen mile ride brought us to Vila Nova de Milfontes. It was not hard riding…mostly flat through an agricultural area. Our plan had been to have some lighter days of cycling early on. Fifteen miles was a really light day. From the last few hectic days in Flag, the flight, taking Lisbon by storm, the last fewdays of biking, we haven’t had a down day in some time. We both relished the idea of stopping early so we could wash clothes, sort gear and – just do nothing for a few hours. Milfontes turned out to be an excellent place to spend some down time. Walking was pleasant. The town was set in a beautiful location. And, whilst strolling about, we came across a buffet restaurant. Yes, it was totally a tourist trap. And yes, it was probably over-priced. But for two very hungry cycling tourists – it was perfect. And, the food was very good.

Obviously, most days we can’t indulge like that. And many days we’ll need to do more miles. On this particular day, however, we were quite content knowing that this was not one of those days!

Wednesday (3/29). A few miles south of Milfontes we took a detour out to the coast. It is truly awe inspiring.

As we retraced our route and prepared to turn south, we crossed paths with William. He had flown from his home near Paris and was on a one month bike tour of Portugal and Spain. We chatted over coffee and juice. Later we met for lunch and spent the rest of the day enjoying the company. It was fun to learn about his life in France. As always, it was fascinating to see the world and world events from a different perspective. The day passed quickly as we rode through interesting scenery and shared stories from life on the road. Eventually though, we parted ways. We chose to camp near Odeceixe, and William continued on to keep to his schedule. Thanks William for a great day.

Thursday 3/30. When riding south in this country, geography requires you to make a left turn at some point. We chose not to ride out and back to the southernmost point of Portugal, and instead turned inland just south of Aljezur. Almost immediately we began what became a few hours of climbing. We eventually crested the ridge and for a while rode in the company of giant wind turbines. I’ve often seen them from a distance, and usually from a car. It’s something else to ride beneath them as the massive blades “whooosh” overhead.

The downhill was glorious and brought us close to the southern coast. This area is known as the “Algarve” region of Portugal. While touted for its beautiful beaches, one article referred to it as “the Florida of Europe.” The final miles to our campground confirmed that observation. Condos, golf courses, ads everywhere hawking tourist traps…not the best look. We were quite happy to get off the road and find peace and quiet – and a hot shower – at our campground.

Looking ahead, we were not enchanted by what we had seen, and what we had heard and read about what lay ahead. From the comfort of our bed we made the bold decision to fast forward through this section of the Algarve to the town of Tavira…60+ miles. We may regret that decision. We’ll see what tomorrow brings.

Friday (3/31). We were both ready for the challenge of a long day…and more than a little nervous. With all stops included, we typically average 6-8 miles an hour over the course of a day. Depending on the variables of wind, hills, and traffic, that could mean upwards of ten hours in the saddle. Ugh. That could be a very long day. We chose N125 as the shortest (and definitely least scenic) route to Tavira. The hills were rolling with long, flat stretches. The traffic was heavy at times, but we were given a broad shoulder most of the day. But the wind! Dare I say it? We enjoyed that rare and most coveted of cycling gifts…a brisk tailwind. All things considered, we arrived in Tavira in good shape and spirits.

During our time together in Lisbon, Jim and Karen raved about Tavira. Good suggestion. It has a charm unlike many of the other communities we’d passed through. We took in just a small part of town in our search for food. After chores tomorrow we’ll check it out in more detail.

Saturday (4/1). Tavira was first settled in the 8th century B.C. The Phoenicians apparently had a fortified settlement on the banks of the Gilao River. As with many ancient cities, its fortunes rose and fell depending on the needs of whatever government controlled the area. Roman’s, Moors and pirates all took their turns using Tavira is some fashion. Today it seems to be a regular city with a healthy influx of tourists taking advantage of the miles of pristine beaches nearby.

We found it a comfortable place to wander, watch people, and just relax. As with any time we make use of a hotel, we also did a full load of laundry in the bath tub. Made sure all devices were fully charged. Used a good internet connection to work on the blog and plan our future travels. Kudos to the Al Muhara Hotel. The staff has been friendly and incredibly helpful. The breakfast was lovely. The facilities are comfortable. The location – perfect. If time and money were not considerations, I think we would happily make Tavira home for several more days.

Final thoughts. We’ve now been in Portugal for eleven days. We covered almost 250 miles since leaving Lisbon a week ago. In the next day or two we will cross into Spain. Honestly, we haven’t been overly fond of the country. Some of the country has been stunning – many areas have been unremarkable. Last year in Turkey and the Balkan countries we made connections with the people almost every day. Here, apart from financial transactions, we feel as though we ate invisible. Our “Ola” and “Bom Dia” get luke-warm responses. No doubt there are many possible reasons and we can’t begin to understand why. Bottom line, we’re ready to see what Spain has to offer. It will certainly be interesting. Until next week – Seize the Carp!

BTW. Just a reminder. If you want daily updates, Sharon is posting on the Polarsteps app. Just download it and request to be friends with Sharon Neubauer Moore.

Life Behind Bars – #2

On March 29, 2023March 29, 2023 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road4 Comments

March 19 – 25

Sunday – Wednesday (3/19-22). It seemed like such a simple plan. 1. Church and pack the apartment on Sunday. Take care of any last minute details. 2. Visit Ethan in Phoenix on Monday. 3. Fly from Flagstaff to Lisbon on Tursday/Wednesday. Simple. Except…

“Last minute details” from #1 sort of ballooned and consumed all available free time Sunday. #2 went well and we had a wonderful time with Ethan. #3…ah, there’s the rub! Massive quantities of snow descended upon our fair city yet again. Our noon flight was canceled by 8am and we were automatically rescheduled on a 6pm flight. The 6pm flight was canceled several hours later. Options. Keep playing the cancel/reschedule game ad nauseum, or take a shuttle to Phoenix and catch the 2nd leg of our already rescheduled flight. Hmmm. Seize the carp we said, and down the hill we went. From there, things went smoothly. We arrived in Lisbon, tired, jet lagged and much later than planned – but we had arrived.

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OTRA – Across the Pond #3

On March 27, 2022November 23, 2022 By KBGearDaveIn Biking Stuff, On the Road1 Comment

Athens and Chios

Sunday (3/20). Today was “act like a tourist” day! We braved cold wind and rain to gape and gawk at all the buildings of the Acropolis complex. Back in the day it was (in part) meant to instill awe in the souls of visitors. Seeing even the remnants today is still awe inspiring. Keeping in mind this was all done with the benefit of 440 BC cutting edge technology…and did I mention it was completed in about nine years? Yeah, wow!

After walking around the Agora and the Acropolis, and seeing all the temples and shrines, the words of the Apostle Paul really came alive. “Paul then stood up in the meeting of the Areopagus and said: ‘People of Athens! I see that in every way you are very religious. For as I walked around and looked carefully at your objects of worship, I even found an altar with this inscription: to an unknown god. So you are ignorant of the very thing you worship—and this is what I am going to proclaim to you.” Powerful stuff.

Famous hill where Paul addressed the meeting of the Areopagus. Acropolis in the background.

Monday (3/21). After two days of attempting to absorb massive doses of history, we took a day off just to roam. Parks. More history. Funky neighborhoods. Grunge. Noise. Congestion. We arrived back at the apartment to find our host had prepared a homecooked Greek meal for us. Eucharisto Aris! We rested our weary bones and fought off a food coma to do some planning. By evening’s end we had ferry tickets to Chios and a place to stay Wednesday evening.

Tuesday (3/22). Clean. Pack. Relax. On the road at 11am. Wandered nine miles through the maze of Athenian roads to the port of Pireus. Along the way we stumbled across a bustling street market. Everything from bras to bananas were on offer. Vendors calling out. People haggling. Endless masses eyeing the merchandise. It was awesome! Finally though we said good-bye to Athens. It was fun and kind of exotic being in a huge, hectic, gritty foreign city. Finally though, we’re just not big city people. Fun Fact: Phoenix has 3,400 people living per square mile. Milwaukee has 5,600. Athens has 44,000! Yeah, we’re ready for something a little more rural.

Wednesday (3/23). Physics lessons kids. 30+ mph wind across open water leads to large swells and a lively boat motion somewhere between an amusement park ride and NASA’s Vomit Comet.

Already loving the more laid back island vibe. Met many lovely people just in our first day. Also got introduced to bougatsa…I am ruined for life!!

Thursday (3/24). Yesterday we explored the town of Chios. Today we headed north along the coast. According to forecasts, we should be able to put away both our down jackets and wind shirts tomorrow. Not today though! An endless parade of ocean swells and white caps suggested that would not be a good idea today. Still it was another visually stunning day.

Friday (3/25). We said good-bye to the town of Chios for a little tour around the southern end of the island. Finally some warm weather weather and light(er) winds. Beautiful biking with serious climbing to Pyrgi. The town is famous for the geometric patters etched in many of the buildings. Found a quiet spot off the road a few miles outside of town Glorious.

Saturday (3/26). Wonderful, quiet evening in the countryside. Our first stop was Olympi, one of the famous fortress cities of Southern Chios. An 87 year old native of the town regaled us with stories growing up there, traveling the world as a merchant seaman, and owning a Greek Pizza restaurant in Washington D.C. for twenty years. Shared another bougatsa for breakfast…Definitely not helping my A1C numbers!

Pyrgi

With sufficient calories on board, we biked to the next fortress village of Mesta before backtracking to Pyrgi. By far the highlight of the day was meeting Thanos (No – not that Thanos). Incredibly nice guy. He was born and raised in Pyrgi, but now lives elsewhere. His mother still lives there. He asked about our travels and shared some of his. Then gave us a tour of the city, including a look in a traditional guest house he owns. Fascinating to see inside something built many hundred years ago. Thanks Thanos for making our day! By days end we arrived at a deserted beach to call home.

Today will be our last full day in Greece. Tomorrow we ride back into Chios town to catch a ferry to Turkey! We are both nervous and excited. With my Greek language background I’ve been able to decipher enough to be comfortable finding our way around. Tomorrow, everything changes and nothing will be familiar! Tune in next week to see how we fare. Until then…STC!

1987 East Coast Bike Trip

On December 31, 2019November 20, 2020 By KBGearDaveIn Biking StuffLeave a comment

“What a long, strange trip its been”

It was like a bizarre episode of the Twilight Zone – “The Train Ride from Hell“. We lumbered along at 5 mph, then slowly shuffled off onto a siding. Hours later we’d begin to lumber along again, until we shuffled off onto another siding. Repeat endlessly! Eventually we were running more than 24 HOURS behind schedule. This was no small feat, given the whole trip was supposed to take that long. Sleep deprived and trapped in the madness, we laughed hysterically at the thought that we’d make it to our destination faster if we unpacked our bikes and rode the rest of the way. We passed the time making up verses to the Grateful Dead song “Truckin.” Amtrak staff seemed not to care. On the rare occasion when an Amtrak employee came through our car, they seemed genuinely surprised, and somewhat annoyed to find the train full of people. One sensed they wished we would just go away. Things came to a head when Milo, a very large and intimidating man picked up the conductor and pinned him to the wall of our coach. I have this vivid memory of the conductor’s feet dangling a foot off the ground as Milo stood nose to nose and yelled, “You WILL get me and my family to Miami to meet our cruise ship! We are NOT going to miss our boat!” Staring death in the face apparently jolted some brain neurons into action, and sparked the novel thought that perhaps all these people hanging about were actually meant to be taken someplace. This led to a flurry of activity, and before long we were all herded off the train and placed on…buses…to take us to our destinations. You can’t make this stuff up. Strong work Amtrak! “What a long, strange trip its been!”

Free from the nightmare…and a happy conductor bidding us all “*good riddance*!”

In spite of Amtrak’s best efforts, we did arrive in Richmond, Virginia. Bikes came out of the shipping boxes, were re-assembled and loaded with camping gear. And just like that, our great adventure began. We had biked and toured before, so in general we knew what to expect. We’d never had the opportunity to travel in this part of the country for such an extended length of time. Looking back now, the objective facts of the trip are easy to recount. Trip length…49 days. Miles traveled…2,600. Total cost for two months of travel – $962. Route…Virginia along the Skyline drive portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway. To Berryville to visit old family friends the McCuans. Washington D.C. to visit the capitol and a distant relative of Sharon’s. From there it was north through Maryland, Pennsylvania, and New York. We turned right and wandered through, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. We hopped a ferry from Bah Hahbah to Yarmouth, Novia Scotia. North through the land of Evangeline, around the land of Anne of Green Gables (Prince Edward Island), New Brunswick, and down the St. Lawrence Seaway in Quebec to Quebec City.

People

Bicycle travel is special, in that it makes you uniquely accessible to people. I can’t begin to count all the conversations we had with complete strangers. People would just begin talking to us. Most had questions. Many of the questions were similar “No – we’re not teachers” and “Tires actually last quite a long time – although we do bring a patch kit for blowouts.” Many of those interactions blend together, some were more memorable.

“The road ahead is so crooked and rough you’ll be shakin’ before you know yer shakin‘” Local sitting on his rocking chair, when asked about the route ahead.
“Where y’all from?” “Wisconsin.” “Is that over by Rochester?” Conversation with geographically challenged folks in upstate New York.
“If the fire’s hot enough – anything will burn” (fellow bike tourer Tom on his love for massive quantities of gummy bears, gummy worms, and all manner of penny candies).
Arthur in Novia Scotia. He had traveled by bicycle for five months, biking in cut off jeans and a flannel shirt, and living on $4.83 per day. He refused to leave us alone while at the same time extolling the virtues of traveling alone.
The McCuan’s. Neighbors from when I was a wee lad. We visited them in Berryville, VA. where they lived on a 162 year old farm. I had always thought Winnie and John were the coolest people – ever! Teachers who had traveled the world, they were the consummate hosts. They gave us a tour of the area and welcomed us to be part of daughter Laurie’s graduation from high school. (I was in 3rd grade when Winnie brought Laurie home for the first time).

The Mc Cuans – Winnie, Elizabeth, and John

“Do you have problems with sheet?” When we failed to comprehend the question, “You know – #2!) French-Canadian cyclists Suzie and Sophie quizzing Sharon on whether biking had given her “problems with sheet” as well. This was their first ever bike trip. While they didn’t mind camping, they had a unique method for securing lodging for the night. They would wait until early evening before stopping at small town convents. “Oh seester…we ‘ave been cycling all day and are hungry and tired. Would you have room for us???” Apparently this never failed. I recently connected with Suzie via Facebook. She currently runs what looks like a lively B & B/Cafe. http://gitechambrechaletstmathieuduparc.com/en/photo/
We met Tom and Ruth Stuwe at church in Barre, Vermont. They invited us to their home, fed us pizza, gave us a tour of the town, engaged us in fascinating conversation, and as we continued our journey, gave us some excellent route suggestions and told us where to buy the best apple fritter ever.

Places

While not quite as slow as Amtrak, cycling hits the sweet spot. It allows you to cover significant distances while also immersing you in your surroundings. There is no way to share everything we saw over the course of two months. So, perhaps, just a few highlights will suffice.

The Skyline drive portion of the Blue Ridge parkway is meant to be biked, with beautiful views of “blue” ridges stretching off into the distance. Several times we crossed the Appalachian trail, and one night camped next to a through hiker.
**Good times!**

**We’re not big city/museum kind of people. Yet we found Washington D.C. to be a fascinating place. In person, the monuments were quite powerful.**

**Some camp spots were more picturesque than others. Maryland was not very welcoming, so we ended up camping under a highway overpass. Hmmm**...where have I heard of that before?

*“Did you know PA was so hilly?”*
*“Nope!”*

A few more notable memories…

Prince Edward Island: A bluebird day biking along the deep blue Atlantic, with colorful fields of lupine in the foreground.
Adirondacks: Biking late into a warm evening and finding not only a perfect wild camp next to a lovely stream…but also a polaroid picture of some guy’s…”manhood”. He was obviously proud of it – Sharon thought it was no big thing!
Hantsport, Novia Scotia: Celebrating Canada Day in Hantsport with an awesome parade. Everyone in town was either in the parade, or sitting along the road cheering.
Panmure Campground, Prince Edward Island: Celebrating the 4th of July grilling burgers with fellow cyclist Kevin from Delaware.
Novia Scotia: Days of huge tailwinds and cruising easily at 20+ mph.
Quebec: Days of brutal headwinds and barely moving at 3 mph.
Spending the most romantic, memorable day ever in Vieux-Quebec (old Quebec) on Sharon’s Birthday. It was a magical day wandering the streets, sitting at sidewalk cafes, watching street performers. It was a magical day, right up to the point late at night when we realized someone had stolen our bikes…in spite of locking them for the first time on the trip.
Getting home several days later to have Sharon get horribly sick and bedridden…only to find out it was morning sickness. Hello Aaron…we’re your parents!

The objective facts of the trip are easy to recount and document with pictures and stats. The subjective effects are much more difficult – perhaps impossible – to convey. Safe to say that the experience had a profound and lasting impact on us. Only two years into our marriage, we learned that we could work and play together, all day, every day, for two months, often in difficult circumstances. We experienced the joys of seeing new places and meeting new people. This trip reinforced our wanderlust and desire for human powered travel. Over the years, we’ve often joked that this was just our first “trip of a lifetime!” It is also a big reason why we’ve continued to seize the carp so vigorously in the years since, and why we’re excited to dive back into the bike touring scene.

Seizing the Carp!

Tag: bike touring

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