Kosovo/Albania ( Day 83 – 89)
Sunday (6/5). Before arriving in Prizren our plan had been to stay one night and move on. Then we saw Prizren! It deserved more than the few hours we were prepared to give it, so we spent an extra day in town. Running errands, exploring more of this ancient city, and relaxing indoors out of the heat.
Monday (6/6). Throughout the day, Kosovar friendliness was once again on full display. On the way out of town we made a quick stop to check the map. Almost immediately Dimi came out and asked if we needed anything. This led to a longer conversation, which of course led to us being given an ice cream for the road. During a rest stop I entered a small market. The clerk asked “tourist?” When I answered “yes” he refused to let me pay. A few minutes later, we had a Google translate conversation with two locals. As we prepared to leave, they insisted on giving us drinks to take along. These, and so many other, goodwill gestures are offered with such sincerity the only possible response is with our equally sincere, hand on the heart “Thank You!!“
We spent the day riding on beautiful country roads, dodging thunderstorms and following some interesting routes offered up by our mapping apps. After a particularly nasty storm caught us, we were sloshing along pondering the unpleasant prospect of putting up our tent in a driving rain. Out of nowhere we chanced upon a lovely restaurant/hotel. A hot shower and warm meal wasn’t a hard sell.
Tuesday (6/7). We normally get excited about entering a new country, but leaving Kosovo was a sad day. In our short time here, we’ve grown to love the people of this country. Again today, at lunch, a gentleman asked where we were from. When he heard “America“, he smiled, put his hand on his heart and said, “God bless America! God bless America! Safe travels.” To that I say, “Thank you! And God bless the people of Kosovo!”
We had heard many good things about Albania. Our first day did not disappoint. From the border we rolled mostly downhill through mountainous terrain. Just before the town of Bajram Curri we stopped on the bank of the Valbone River to camp for the night. We briefly enjoyed the company of a herd of goats, a fisherman, and a family cooling off in the river. After that blissful solitude and the sound of rushing water.
Wednesday (6/8). Noah, the Brit living in France, cycling to Istanbul said the scenery around Bajram Curri was out of this world! Good call Noah. We arrived in Bajram Curri, got new sims, cash and breakfast, and left on a low gear slog to the end of Valbone Valley National Park. Not even riding through a gully washer dampened our excitement. This place is amazing. Near the end of our 3,000 foot climb, the clouds parted enough to reveal just how amazing. Unfortunately the weather will dictate how much we get to see. As if to emphasize that point, the skies opened and lightning struck a transformer, knocking out power to the whole community.
Thursday (6/9). Much to our surprise we woke to blue skies. Determined to firmly seize this weather window, we ate and immediately set out to tackle a nearby climb. And climb we did. Two thousand feet nearly straight up. At least it was hot and sticky – and so worth it. Apparently this trail is part of a transnational backpacking / hiking trail known as “The Peaks of the Balkans” trail. We met a father/daughter duo backpacking the route. Sounds and looks incredible. (More details here: http://www.peaksofthebalkans.com/ ) We soaked in the views from our high point… until the first rumble of thunder. We made a hasty retreat to our guest house just as another storm unleashed. That led to a long, lazy, wet afternoon. Our host apologized for the power still being out by bringing two glasses of home made rakija. It was a good day!
Friday (6/10). Rest day. ‘Nuf said. We did learn some interesting bits from our host. One of eight children, he was born and raised in Valbone. His parents survived life under the psychopathic dictator Enver Hoxha. During his rule somewhere between 175,000 and 750,000 machine gun bunkers were built…in seemingly random locations. Paranoid much? They are still visible here in the valley and all over the country. Because Valbone is close to a border, during the Hoxha era 2,000 soldiers were stationed here. Our host said that a soldier would be posted every 25 meters. (Probably more to keep people in than to prevent an outside attack). Hoxha was a true communist believer who cut ties with both Russia and China for not being communist enough. He had as many as 25,000 people killed for not supporting his vision of communist paradise. This while he lived in a private compound filled with every western luxury imaginable. The Albanian people have had to work hard to overcome Hoxha’s “legacy.”
Saturday (6/11). Turns out, our last full day in Valbone Valley was the official start of the tourist season here. This special occasion was marked by traditional music and dancing as part of the festivities. When the dancing ended and politicians started droning, we rode and hiked to the end of the Valley. No matter how much we stand and stare, we just never get tired of the views.
Thus ends another week. In the morning we leave Valbone with only a vague idea of what comes next…as usual. We are pretty stoked to find out. Until then…STC!
