aka: The Extreme Sport of…Sewing
I will confess to being envious of my “manly” friends when they talk about their metal working, welding, car engine rebuilding exploits. “I sewed some stuff” doesn’t have quite the same cachet. In 1830 Barthelemy Thimonnier, a French tailor, invented a machine that used a hooked needle and one thread, creating a chain stitch. It wasn’t quite recognizable as a sewing machine, but it worked well enough that Thimonnier planned to use it in his factory to make uniforms for the French army. French tailors caught wind of this turn of events. Fearing they would lose their jobs, they rioted and burned down his factory – with Thimonnier inside. Given the full-contact, life and death consequences, clearly sewing is not an activity for sissies. In fact, given its history, might one might even consider it an “extreme sport?”
Back in the late 70’s I was beginning to explore outdoor activities that often required specialized gear. Since I had very little money, I decided to join with those brave men and women before me who risked life and limb to sew garments. My first effort was a pair of down booties from Altra Kits from Boulder, CO. Next, I moved on to some really basic nylon shell jackets and pants. You have to remember this was in the era of wool – when the 60/40 nylon/cotton ‘mountain’ parka was cutting edge. During a winter trip in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area, I had the chance to show off some of my handiwork. It was probably Dan-Boss Backer who said, “Wow! That kicks ass!” Hmmm. Kicks ass…Kicks Butt…KB! Thus was born KB Gear, and now many years later, with tongue firmly in cheek – KB Extreme Gear!
The basic straight stitch I learned on those first projects is just about the only stitch I know – or really have needed. With that basic knowledge, I’ve managed to churn out a variety of gear – some of it actually useful and usable. Gaitors, windpants, windshells, waterproof overmitts, sleeping bags, ultralight tarps, backpacks, kilts and so on. Over the years, I’ve come up with some of my own designs, but for the most part I follow patterns. Some patterns were specifically designed for outdoor use. Others have been adapted or modified from patterns meant for other activities. One of the most important lessons I’ve learned over the years is the value of a well designed pattern. So, in an effort to encourage you to learn this most dangerous skill, I’d like to offer handful of my favorite patterns and provide some resources.
Green Pepper Hood. Overall I’m not a real fan of Green Pepper patterns. While they have a huge variety of outdoor related patterns, the ones I’ve used are overly complicated, and seem to focus a bit more on how something looks than in how it functions. The one exception is this hood. It is well designed, relatively easy to sew, and VERY functional. With a strip of velcro around the bottom, and on the collar of a jacket, you can add a great hood to any jacket.
I am a huge fan of Controlled Exposure. They only have a few offerings. Unlike some of the Green Pepper patterns, whoever came up with these clearly spent time outside. They understood the kinds of features that make gear not just “good” but “great!”
The CE55 Mountain Pant design is brilliant. The Bib straps wrap around and attach in the front of the pants, allowing one to easily drop trou when one must. Full zips allow easy on/off as well as good ventilation. The pattern is easy to customize to add features and to ensure a perfect fit. For years, these have been my go to shell pants for climbing and skiing. I actually prefer these bibs to a pair from Arteryx! The CE65 stretch pants are my 2nd favorite CE pattern. Super easy to make. Both Sharon and I have pairs made of heavy weight, Polarguard Powershield fabric. Super warm, windproof and highly water resistant.
Folks in Norway have a saying “There’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothes.” I doubt they are the first, or only people with that opinion. The weather is just as pleasant in nearby Finland, and Shelby offers a wonderful variety of products and patterns designed to help folks cope.
I came across Shelby while surfing many years ago, and was intrigued by their designs – especially for their “Abisko” jacket. Getting this pattern shipped from Finland was more expensive than the pattern itself, but well worth it. This jacket pattern is by far my favorite. There are probably a few dozen of these floating around among family and friends. It is incredibly well designed, and without too much effort will produce an excellent jacket. One of my favorite features is the ease with which you can customize the pattern to fit any size or purpose. I have one made of lightweight material designed specifically for running. I have two jackets made from the brilliant “Eye Pollution Yellow” material for visibility when motorcycling. One is fitted for moderate temps, one is extra large to layer over bulky cold weather riding gear. I’m currently working on one with a fleece liner and Gore-tex outer shell to be used as an all around winter jacket. Some have integrated hoods, some make use of the Green Pepper hood.
I’m pretty sure Arcteryx is not worried about KB Extreme Gear eating into their market share. I’m never going to compete with the kind of gear they produce – but that’s really not the point. There is a tremendous amount of satisfaction spending time outside, using gear designed, made, repaired, or modified with your own hands…at a fraction of the cost. With the materials and knowledge available on the internet, it is amazing what you can do once you set your mind to it…and this extends beyond sewing/modifying/repairing your own gear. There is also something satisfying – and healthy – about tuning your own skis, making your own “freezer bag” backpacking meals, coming up with your own adventures and planning your own trips, etc. But I digress. I hope you enjoyed this little walk down the KB memory lane.
Resources
- https://ripstopbytheroll.com (Although I just recently found this site, these guys are seriously good. They are now my favorite site for fabric and I refer them to anyone interested. They have lots of high tech, hard to find outdoor material at some seriously good prices. I definitely suggest checking them out.)
- www.seattlefabrics.com (fabric, zippers, patterns – you name it)
- http://www.owfinc.comwww.owfinc.com (wide variety of fabrics)
- www.rockywoods.com (fabric, patterns, hardwear)
- www.shelbyoutdoor.com (all manner of outdoor gear, patterns, from Finland however)
- www.thegreenpepper.com (lots, and lots of patterns for outdoor garments and gear)